Twisted Metal Series General

[Vadimony]

Forward:

This is an advanced guide to playing Reaper. Utilize as best as you need, but be aware that the learning curve between average and advanced is all dependent on skill level and how well you are able to utilize the vehicle's strengths. Of the whole playable vehicle cast, Reaper is among the most taxing vehicles in the game and quite difficult to use exceptionally well. This vehicle also comes with the most hurt clause, but his ability to harm targets can sometimes go unmatched in terms of range, and quick timing. But his vehicle is the most sensitive to taking damage, most sensitive to obstacles and other inclines/ declines/ bumps around maps and he's certainly one of the most dynamic vehicles at driving around. Despite the challenges, there is so much reward involved in playing as Reaper: primarily because it often does "feel good" to play as the lone bike that's one of the weakest balanced vehicles in the game. I've compiled a list of plausible ways to utilizing Reaper's many assets, and this is a practical Reaper player making this list not someone that simply plays around with him every so often. There's many possible styles to playing Reaper, therefore, please select one that you feel the most comfortable playing (I personally love the up-close-and-personal brawling, therefore, I play mine a lot more physical and aggressive than other players choose to do. I'm much more of a daredevil than the rest and I wouldn't recommend this playing style to everyone as it is rather hard) and understand that playing Reaper is supposed to be about having fun more so than other things.

Reaper Statistics:

• Hit Points: 90
  • Health Pickup Recovery: 36 points
  • Health Semi Damage Taken: (instant death)
  • Mercy Bonus Pickup: 18 points
  • Environmental Damage:
    • Fall Damage: 27 points
    • Ferris Wheel: 13 damage points (Thrills and Spills Map)
    • Film Reel: 15 damage points (Sunsprings)
    • Wrecking Ball: 36 damage points (Blackrock)
    • Spikes: 68.4 damage points (Blackrock)
    • Shock/Lava: Shock , Lava (Blackrock)
• Speed: 4 (below Crimson Fury, Kamikaze, and Talon at standard speed, but is faster than Talon with Turbo usage)
• Special Regen Rate: 20 seconds
• Class: Extra Small
• Turbo Consumption Rate: about 35 seconds (from full to empty)
• Turbo Dash: takes up 20 seconds of turbo meter energy, which means you have about 15 seconds remaining of full turbo usage after a Turbo Ram Dash
• Turning Rate:
  • Handbrake only - takes about 2 seconds to make a 0° to 360° action.
  • Acceleration and Handbrake - takes about 1 second to make a 0° to 360° action,
  • Turbo and Handbrake - takes about 1 second to make a 0° to 360° action.
  • Analog Stick only - takes 7 seconds to make a 0° to 360° action.
• Freeze Tap-out Rate: very fast (takes about 6 button presses to defrost yourself)
• Weapon Capacity Bay: 20 slots + 3 special slots
• AA Abilities:
  • Regen Rate 2.5 point value per second; for a total of 40 seconds
  • Freeze: 1 per energy bar (takes about 60% of energy bar)
  • Rear-Freeze: 1 per energy bar (takes about 50% of energy bar)
  • Mine: 11 per energy bar (takes about 9% of energy bar)
  • Super Mine: 2 per energy bar (takes about 40% of energy bar)
  • Red-Shield: 4 per energy bar (takes about 25% of energy bar)
  • Blue-Shield: 1 per energy bar (takes about 80% of energy bar)
• AA Combos:
  • Frontal Freeze:
  • 1 freeze (front) and 1 absorption shield
  • 1 freeze (front) and 1 super mine
  • 1 freeze (front) and 1 red shield
  • 1 freeze (front) and 4 mines (normal)
  • Red Shield:
  • 4 red shields (if you wait once the shields fade after each use, but it's 3 if you quickly tap since the second one takes up two shields)
  • 1 red shield, 1 freeze (front), and 1 mine
  • 1 red shield, 1 super mine
  • 1 red shield, 1 super mine, and 4 mines (though, two of them recharge over that time period)
  • 1 red shield, 1 rear freeze, and 1 red shield (this takes the whole segment, so you can swap these around as you like)
  • 1 red shield, 1 rear freeze, and 2 mines
  • 1 red shield and 1 absorption shield
  • 2 red shields, 1 super mine, and 1 mine (takes up the full amount)
  • 3 red shields and 3 mines
  • 3 red shields and 1 super mine (takes about 4 to 5 seconds to recharge the AA needed for one)
  • Blue Shield:
  • 1 absorption shield and 1 freeze (either frontal or rear)
  • 1 absorption shield and 1 red shield
  • 1 absorption shield and 2 mines
  • Mines:
  • 2 super mines and 2 mines (normal)
  • 1 super mine and 1 freeze (frontal)
  • 1 super mine, 1 rear freeze, and 1 mine
  • 1 super mine, 1 absorption shield
  • 1 super mine, 2 red shields, 1 mine
  • Recharge Rate After Uses:
  • Freeze (wait 8 seconds to gain another)
  • Rear Freeze (wait 20 seconds to gain another)
  • Absorption Shield (wait 23 seconds to gain another)
  • Red Shields (you can do four in a row, but you have to wait another 7 seconds for more; but it's a 11 second recharge rate for this shield)
  • Super Mine (you can drop two in a row, but you'll have to wait about 8 seconds for a third super mine)
  • Mine (5 second recharge rate)

Reaper's Weapon Capabilites and Statistics:

Homing Missile:

• Fires from the right side
• 2 shots per second
• 12 damage per shot

Fire Missile:

• Fires from the left side
• 2 shots per second
• 16 damage per shot

Power Missile:

• Fires from the right side
• 1 shot per second
• 75 damage per shot

Shotgun:

• Fires from right side
• 1 shot per two seconds
• 5 (far), 20 (medium range), 40 (close range), 60 (point-blank windshield) damage

Ricochet:

• Fires from right side
• 1 shot per two seconds
• 25 damage (35 damage if bounced off of a wall), and varies for the alternate charged-up version

Sniper Rifle:

• Fires from right side
• 1 shot per second (quick tap)
• 16 damage

Remote Bomb:

• Fires from right side
• 1 shot per "x" amount of time, but the prep time is 1 second when swapped to it
• 35 damage to 75 damage (50 if stuck on someone)

Napalm:

• Fires from right side
• 1 shot per "x" amount of time, but the prep time is 1 second and the hang time may be anywhere. You may be able to do two shots per 4 to 5 seconds in close range.
• 5 to 20 (35 for a bullseye) damage

Swarm:

• Fires from right side
• 1 shot per 2 seconds, with a half-second prep time. 5 seconds charge time to full power and 2 seconds less to 48 damage value.
• 48 (full bar), 70 (blinking)

Stalker Missile:

• Fires from the right side
• 1 shot per second, with a 5 second charge-up time.
• 45 damage

Sidearms:

• Mounted guns aren't that useful for Reaper. You don't want to use a weapon that you have to face an opponent.
• Rockets are recommended as they can help you attack while being able to still turn on a dime. Very useful.
• Shotgun can be used to push an opponent back enough to prevent them from ramming you, and you can then flamesaw them right into the grill, but this is a rather hard thing to pull off as it's very very risky. However it is exceptional if used to somewhat stagger a foe before you release a flamesaw; damage dealing isn't going to be as high as the rockets though.
• Magnum isn't advised. But it has good usage if you can combo them with the flamesaw at the right time. Although it can work, the rockets are better for it and hold many other advantages that help you keep moving.
• Laser pistol isn't exactly the best choice for a Reaper, but you can combo them up with the flamesaws and deal much more damage while still holding that 1 damage per shot type of rapid fire ability. It's rather hard to time effectively, but you can make a killing with the 5 extra damage it can do as opposed to the rockets. Plus, it is instant damage which makes it all the more effective.
• Uzi kind of drops in value since it is more of a chasing weapon and with Reaper you don't want to chase anyway.

Reaper's Special Weapon Information:

Primary: Chainsaw

• Damage: 40 damage
• Prep-Time: around two-thirds of a second between swaps to ready
• Charge time: a little over a second to cock the chainsaw and throw it
• Duration: the animation is a little over a second long, and the chainsaw can travel a rather far length before it fades.
• Accuracy: it has homing abilities, but if someone drifts to the sides as you throw them, then it will miss. I'd probably label it as a 30% chance of following a target through a turn, but it doesn't have good tracking, unless it hits straight. You also don't have any reticle to guide you, so as long as you aim in the right area, you can have the chainsaw guide itself into targets. It adjusts itself based on the targets position, but it doesn't have the best tracking to actually make tighter turns than perhaps 11 o'clock and 1 o'clock.
• Range: if you go on Diablo Pass, and face one end on the bridge to the next, you can figure out the long distance that the range has. Basically it's from the rest area (next two miles) sign all the way to the Twisted Rock National Park sign. If you go farther than that, then you're out of range. Which is pretty much any range on any map. You're probably going to be able to tag anything through that range.
• Sap Damage: yes
• Combos:
  • Chainsaw isn't really a combo on its own. Usually, you'd use it against speedy vehicles or other Reapers, or any situation where you need to actually home in on a target. There's obvious ways of comboing with it, but those are pretty much the same as the flamesaw. You can't really use it in terms of stringing attacks and stuff. It also doesn't have any knockback abilities or any sort of stagger effect.
• Deadzone: the deadzone has a slight curve from the 11 o'clock position to the 1 o'clock position, this allows you to turn and shoot, which lets you just tap and forget about it. You'll have to acquire a feel for flinging the chainsaw around as it's not going to lock on for you, so you'll have to guess which vehicle it will attack.
• Usage:
  • You mostly use it as a means of attacking smaller vehicles or low death vehicles. The most likely use you'll gain out of it is to throw it after you flamesaw someone. There's a glitch that sometimes works where you're able to negate the charge and throwing animation times to just shoot one off as quickly as a homing missile. Otherwise, it's not really useful when you consider the damage capabilities of not only the alternate but also the flamesaw. You're losing out the chance to deal at least 3 times as much damage all for the sake of a little bit of homing capability. As much as a weapon it can be, overall, it just isn't that prominent unless you're fighting against vehicles that are often fast. If you're fighting Crimsons and other Reapers, then using it is pretty useful, but those vehicles can usually dodge and avoid the chainsaw and it takes a lot more than a few to kill them. It is a great way to kill off weaker targets, but you shouldn't prefer using it over a flamesaw unless you know the weapon will kill the target.
    

Primary: Flamesaw

• Damage: 150 damage
• Prep-Time: around two-thirds of a second between swaps to ready
• Charge time: a little over a second to cock the chainsaw and throw it, but it takes roughly a second to light the chainsaw into a flamesaw. So, you're looking at roughly 2 to 3 seconds between flamesaws.
• Duration: the animation is a little over a second long, and the chainsaw can travel a rather far length before it fades.
• Accuracy: it has no homing ability. You have to aim it and you have to aim it well. The recoil for it makes it very difficult to hit things, and you have to remember to have a level release. I'll expand more on how to better handle the flamesaw a little later. But there's absolutely NO HOMING in the flamesaw.
• Range: if you go on Diablo Pass, and face one end on the bridge to the next, you can figure out the long distance that the range has. Basically it's from the rest area (next two miles) sign all the way to the Twisted Rock National Park sign. If you go farther than that, then you're out of range. Which is pretty much any range on any map. You're probably going to be able to tag anything through that range.
• Sap Damage: yes
• Combos:
  • Juggle/ Stagger Combos:
    • Freeze + Flamesaw = the frozen target is immobile and you can then aim it directly at them. Easy to do given the situation. You can also use rear freeze too, but you'll have to put the effort to quick turn on a dime just to hit someone.
    • Absorption Shield + Flamesaw = use the Stalker missile you fired to stagger the opponent and give yourself the opportunity to connect with a flamesaw right into them. This takes some practice, but you can effectively use this combo to hit targets freely.
    • Self-Stick Remote Bomb + Flamesaw = use the AOE effect of the remote bomb to stun the opponent, which will stun you too, and then cock the flamesaw and steer in the direction of your opponent who should still be staggered. This combo is a lot harder and you will have to take a shield just to survive, but the damage doing potential is pretty high. You're able to unload 90 damage and the full 150 damage all for 1 shield; which lets you use a freeze right after too or an Absorption Shield if need be. But this combo attack is very very difficult to perform. You can try to do it with a teammate's remote bomb too, but that takes cooperation from your teammate.
    • Turbo Dash + Flamesaw = use the turbo dash to repel incoming vehicles and send them back, then cock the flamesaw and drive it into their vehicle as they're slightly off-balance. Of course, fundamentally, Reaper isn't going to win out in ram conflicts against any vehicle if those vehicles do a turdo dash as well. Against normal rams and sometimes slow moving turbo rams, you can unload enough ramming force to send the opponent back, and not sustain any ram damage from it.
    • Red Shield + Flamesaw = run head-on into an opponent and then cock the flamesaw, as they ram into you, take a shield and you'll likely be sent flying but you'll be able to hit them with a flamesaw. This is probably one of the most effective ways to hit people with the flamesaw. There's little risk if you can actually time it all right. You also have the option of obtaining victory against every vehicle using this since you do have 4 shields to their 2. It only takes 2 flamesaws to kill everything in the game.
    • Shotgun Sidearm + Flamesaw = allow your opponent to move in real close, then use the sidearm to stagger your opponent a bit, and after that, cock your flamesaw and unload. It allows you to "avoid" ram damage, and to slow down the enemy, but it is not very easy to effectively pull off day in and day out. Also you do put yourself in a lot of risky situations trying to pull it off.
      • There's obviously a chance you could do a remote bomb on the ground that acts as a means to stagger an opponent or a charged ricochet that you detonate that staggers someone, or even a napalm that was shot way off and impacted the ground near the target...But the chance of those things applying to a real-life situation is pretty low. And this really takes a lot more effort than it really needs to take, which is already difficult as it is. I wouldn't recommend trying those other methods out as they're difficult to really predict and control. You can of course have a team mate act as the support that off-balances opponents for you, but that's sometimes not an option. Other than the ones listed, there's really no other combo unless you stick a remote bomb on an opponent and then explode it and then flamesaw that opponent. It is mostly because the flamesaw takes about 2 or more seconds to get set before you can really shoot them off. And that's not including actual aiming and anything else that may be a huge factor.
  • Teamwork Combos:
    • Roadboat and Kamikaze can be used as excellent tools to help you connect easier. Kamikaze can EMP targets and freeze them for you to flamesaw. Roadboat can suck them up and help you flamesaw them when Roadboat faces you. Of course, this takes practice and teamwork.
    • More advanced teamwork exists, but this requires other players to use stun attacks: power missiles, stalker missiles, remote bombs, napalms, charged/ regular ricochets, sniper rifles, shotguns, coffin bombs, crowd controller shockwaves , Sweet Bot Slam, rams, freezes, RPG, and so on. You'll have to really be able to work with someone to pull off some of these. Especially the more advanced kinds.
  • You're likely going to be forced to set up your own flamesaws, so make an effort to practice aiming the flamesaw. There's a big difference between being able to flamesaw in motion and being able to flamesaw when you're stopping or against frozen targets. It isn't easy to pull off, but it is much more rewarding than not doing it. The more effective you can flamesaw, the better your Reaper play will be.
  • You can actually perform "combos" or additional hits after a flamesaw. The way you do that is to quick-swap to some other weapon that you have in your inventory and ram the flamesaw into your opponent so that you can instantly shoot off whatever you have in your inventory and not miss. Stalkers are usually the best thing since they are right next to the special icon. Use a flamesaw by ramming it into an opponent and then swap to stalker missiles and fire that off as fast as you can. You can deal more damage after it since the stalker can be used as a combo starter. You can also do the same for power missiles, shotguns, homings, fires, so on and so forth...
  • Last but not least is the ability to combo it with magnum bullets and laser pistol (charged) shots. You have to release it at the same time as you cock the flamesaw.
  • And of course, you can freelook the flamesaw and then have a freeze tag the opponent right after the hit so that you can add in more damage or do another flamesaw. This takes more timing though. And a lot of practice.
  • You can also do a Flamesaw, then self-stick a RPG on yourself.
• Deadzone: the deadzone is a little above the ground, but you have to understand that there's no aim assist and you're going to have to deal with the recoil. The recoil is high, which means it will go over your crosshair by a large margin. You have to pretty much aim a little lower to get it to hit aerial targets.
• Usage:
  • I will cover flamesawing a little later as there is a lot of depth to it. However, I personally consider flamesawing the most important element to being a capable Reaper. It gets its own little section just to explain how to manipulate your movements to better line up a shot. It is one of the most prominent aspects of being good with Reaper and why I have to spend so much effort to elaborate on it.
    

Secondary: RPG

• Damage:
  • 45 damage (22 damage for farther distance)
  • 120 damage (60 damage for farther distance)
• Prep-Time: almost 2 seconds
• Charge time: the firing animation is quick, like half a second, but the charging time is 5 seconds for stage two.
• Duration: takes about 2 seconds to swap into it and then pop one instantly. Distance it covers can take more time since it isn't the fasting mobile projectile.
  
• Lasting Duration: 1 minute before it explodes on its own.
• Accuracy: it has no homing ability at all. You have to aim with the crosshair to stick to targets.
• Range: I don't think it has a limit at all.
• Blast Radius: less than the length of a Juggernaut. I'd argue that it is probably the length of one end of Warthog to the other. It isn't large by any standard.
• Sap Damage: yes (it is an AOE attack)
• Combos:
  • Stick it on yourself.
  • Stick on a teammate.
  • You can use it to juggle opponents if you have three, as they will stagger each hit.
• Deadzone: you have to basically move the free look camera all the way back just to get the most accuracy out of it. But the deadzone is a little lower and will usually move the projectile downwards towards the 7 o'clock range.
• Usage:
  • Stick it on an enemy or teammate and then drive off using other weapons. Once it charges, you can detonate it for 120 or 60 damage in a blast radius.
  • Stick it on objects that are destructible so that you may open or remove certain pathways in the map.
  • Stick it in areas that are populated so that you can explode people while using it.
  • Stick it on trains and other environmental damage attacks.
  • Juggle an opponent by continually hitting them with it, but you really only need to hit them twice to send them popping, then tag them a third time to leave it on them. It will do 210 damage over time with three.
  • Stick it on yourself and kamikaze run into people (while having the shield on). Thing is that it's very risky to do it, but it is capable of being a helpful asset.
  • Stick it on the Health Semi and detonate it when someone comes near it. You can also stick it on areas around health and stuff too.
  • Other than that, you're probably not going to make a living using the RPG since it takes a lot more effort and sometimes the projectile is random. However, you can really make use of the RPG in Nuke. Also against Juggernauts.

Foreward:

This concludes the statistical variant of the guide and the rest of this guide will cover how to utilize the vehicle and how you'd go around playing him. As there are many possible ways of "playing" as Reaper, there aren't that many ways that are different from one another. When you are online, you'll find few Reaper experts and most of them play a specific way: conservative (where they avoid conflicts and play like a coyote). Other than that focal point, there are other styles of Reaper that you can take. Mine is a high-speed style that forces me into a do or die situation. The other styles I'll discuss will consider utilizing more of the map than you'd normally have to use, or at least using the other weapons. I will also provide how you'd technically approach to fighting against certain matchups. As the rest of the guide will be my perspective on the game, just know that this is all that I pretty much wish to put on here. I will claim that I am a very good Reaper. So taking my advice will likely be helpful.

Introduction to the Playing Styles of Reaper:

Reaper is a versatile vehicle to some extent. It has limited abilities in some areas, but it can always be very useful in combat for specific reasons. In one on one type atmospheres, Reaper can be useless especially in official one on one format events. That is mostly because Reaper doesn't have any set advantages of most vehicles. In team games, Reaper is a very capable and highly effective vehicle, but he is often times the most sought after target on the battlefield. In FFA type atmospheres, a Reaper will have more success being very passive and preying against foes like a coyote. Sneak attacks and hide and seek tactics are things that a Reaper can excel with, but the chances of it working all the time depends on how attentive the opponents are. I'll classify a Reaper into the following categories:

• Passive
  • This type of playing style is looking to isolate players. In this style, the attacking is only there in isolation tactics. Look to isolate players from groups, packs and pick your fights wisely. Majority of the time, your job is to attack weakened prey for a quick kill or half dead, wounded prey. You're looking for higher kill counts, but at the sacrifice of high Damage Done or worthy kills. Ambash and attack is your preference under this style, as well as preserving your life.
• Aggressive
  • This type of playing style is looking to unload high amounts of damage. Whatever helps you continuously unload high damage done is what you're going to use. Whether it is flamesaw after flamesaw, or other conventional weapons, you do it.
• Specialized Defense
  • This Reaper is a fundamental defender. It uses a complex style to fight; utilizing less of the flamesaws for conventional weapons and sticking with an AOE attack (the RPG) for its main special usage. Of the styles, this is mostly a teamwork type of style.
• Specialized Offense
  • This style of play is different because it utilizes the RPG as a feint to distort and confuse other players of what you are doing. Although you can always fall back on the flamesaws, you use the timely capabilities of the RPG to confuse your opponents and get them guessing at what you're doing.

My personal style is Specialized Offense (meaning it is an offense based around my unique Reaper playing style--your playing style may differ) but I am able to play either of those listed. There's a bigger difference between my style and the style of others. However, the best style of play is obviously the mixture of both defense and offense. Reason being that you are very versatile and able to affect the outcome by your actions.

I will cover them but before I do that, I'll go through the matchups since they will likely be the same against vehicles regardless of playing styles.

Reaper Matchups:

Freeze tap-out numbers:

• Axel ~ 20
• Crimson Fury ~ 12
• Darkside ~ 30
• Death Warrant ~ 20
• Junkyard Dog ~ 12
• Kamikaze ~ 12
• Meat Wagon ~ 20
• Outlaw ~ 20
• Reaper ~ 6
• Roadboat ~ 20
• Roadkill ~ 12
• Shadow ~ 20
• Sweet Tooth ~ 20
• Talon ~ 30
• Vermin ~ 12
• Warthog ~ 20

These are the rates versus each vehicle. Here's the health values:

• Axel has 170 health points
• Crimson Fury has 110 health points
• Darkside has 280 health points
• Death Warrant has 180 health points
• Junkyard Dog has 260 health points
• Kamikaze has 150 health points
• Meat Wagon has 210 health points
• Outlaw has 240 health points
• Reaper has 90 health points
• Roadboat has 210 health points
• Roadkill has 175 health points
• Shadow has 230 health points
• Sweet Tooth has 250 health points
• Talon has 120 health points
• Vermin has 180 health points
• Warthog has 300 health points

Remember that in terms of numbers, it takes you at least 2 flamesaws to kill something, where some vehicles take less. The ones that do take less are practically impossible to hit directly. For those, you have to freeze as they usually are far too fast to hit with a steady attack. Remember that the vehicles that have fast tap-out rates: Reaper, Crimson Fury, Kamikaze, Vermin, Junkyard Dog, and Roadkill. These guys are the ones you want to quickly time your shots. Darkside and Talon have the slowest tap-out rates, so those you can sorta of line up a much more accurate shot because you're not pushed for time. But of course, each vehicle can still be difficult to hit with a freeze + flamesaw. The way the thawing works is that it takes a certain amount of button presses to unthaw, and you have to press the buttons that many times to successfully escape a freeze. Depending on how fast a player can tap out, even vehicles like Talon and Darkside become practically supersonic. So don't expect it to be easy to flamesaw anyone you meet. Nonetheless, using freeze is sometimes necessary. Especially in matchup perspective. Regardless of your aim, you sometimes cannot defeat specific vehicles with Reaper because of the massive disadvantage Reaper has against other vehicles. But I will try and provide the best way to fight against specific vehicles.

• Axel:
  • You will want to watch out for a few things:
    • His secondary special can stagger you. This is bad because it wobbles you around and sends you flying. In addition, it takes about 1/4 of your health away. Not only will you be unable to move, but you won't even be able to make a counterattack. Always try jumping over this or staying away from his range. It is necessary to take an Axel that's using the crush attack rather than one that uses the shockwave. Be very aware of the shockwave as it is the most difficult thing for you to compete with.
    • An Axel can jump over your flamesaws. Do often look to prevent that by freezing him. He has two shields, so make an effort to burn them with fodder attacks or a rear freeze to force him to waste one. Your aim is to freeze + flamesaw him because it makes an Axel significantly easier to deal with. He'll have twenty health left so attempt to kill with him homings, or another attack.
    • Crush: that means you have an easy shot to kill him as he can't shoot anything that homes at you, and you'll have an easy chance to reverse and charge a saw then stick it to him. Just be sure to aim properly. Also, Crush has a small delay, so if he makes contact, you have some time to throw a shield before damage registers.
    • You can one shot an Axel using this tactic:
      • Freeze + Flamesaw + Turbo Dash Ram + Rockets/ Shotgun Sidearms
      • Freeze + Flamesaw + Laser Pistol
    • Overall, you shouldn't chase after an Axel as he's able to jump and control the pace, which prevents you from getting in an attack. Look to fight an Axel in the open, and be aware that Axel is a very good dodging vehicle.
  • Freeze him to prevent him from jumping, and know that it's only 20 extra damage after the ram connects.
  • If you're a team mate of Axel, then you can freeze for him as he crushes. You have two rear freezes you can throw, so make use of them. Axel can exceed the instant damage totals with his special like no other. You can also stick a RPG on him, and then let him shockwave and blow up the RPG after for more crowd controller damage. Or you can do it when he's crushing someone.
• Crimson Fury:
  • You are at a disadvantage with this matchup. I recommend avoiding fighting against them unless you are prepared:
    • Remote bombs
    • Napalms
    • Homing Missiles
    • Stalker missiles
  • You will rarely be able to flamesaw a moving Crimson Fury. It is simply too hard unless the Crimson Fury runs into it, or is trying to ram you. Freezing it and flamesawing it is your only means of actual assurance, but even that is hard to manage since a CF is capable of tapping out of your freezes before you even cock your flamesaw. In this matchup, I'd recommend tagging them with the ALT. Simply freeze them, and then ram right into them and swap to your ALT and tap it as fast as possible, you'll tag it and then your job is to wait for it to cook to 120 damage doing potential. Nonetheless the most reliable way to kill it is to use Stalkers and Absorption Shield as well as homings. Crimson can dodge the Stalkers, but if you angle them at the right time, you can kill it.
  • I would recommend avoiding Crimsons, and target other vehicles as Reaper. Although you could stick a remote bomb on yourself or a RPG rocket on yourself and detonate those when a Crimson Fury is trying to shockwave, I'd recommend not trying that kind of thing.
  • The advice I will tell you from experience is that most Crimson Fury players like to do the following things:
    • Hit a Reaper with a fully-charged stalker missile using their speed to close the gap. Once you're off-balance, then they attack from the rear with a flamethrower or spam their ALT special. Eventually, when you can recover and try and counter they have already left your field of vision all to return and do it again. It becomes worse when they have mega guns and start getting in rams or start using shotguns.
    • The fact is that you can't compete in armor, speed, nor turning. Crimson Fury is the better vehicle of the two, but there are ways you can combat it, however, if the Crimson Fury starts shooting out rockets from farther away or using Remote Bombs, then you cannot expect to win.
    • Try some of these tactics to kill one:
      • Self stick a remote bomb on yourself and get near the Crimson Fury then use a shield and it'll take away 75 health from Crimson. After that, bait an attack and use an absorption shield to repel a Stalker Missile. You'll kill it. You can do a freeze + shield if you have to stop it from moving to get in close for the remote bomb hit, but you'll have to provide your own stalker missile or other attack that can do the remaining amount of damage.
      • Freeze + RPG it (you gotta be fast), then use your last shield to escape from it and then explode it since it'll be a 1 hit kill after the five second charge.
      • Other than those, the other ways are to attempt to exchange missile fire with the Crimson Fury. It is quite unlikely for you to stand a chance doing this. Of course, you can always try to flamesaw them with/without a freeze, but the timing is necessary as the Crimson can always jump over it right as you prep the flamesaw or it can shield it.
      • The rule of thumb is that you have to have your flamesaw prepped before you freeze, and then you have to ram it right into the Crimson Fury since it can tap out of the freeze before you even cock and load the flamesaw.
      • Obviously, you can self-stick a RPG, but you only have 1 minute to get to where the Crimson Fury is and you have to avoid all remote bombs used on you, even to go as far as using Absorption Shield on them. Once you get in close, then blow it up and watch the 120 damage kill it.
  • In team games, usually attempt to avoid Crimson Fury players unless you feel you can get an easy kill on them without exposing yourself to danger. They're certainly one of your biggest threats on the battlefield, but they can't really kill you as quickly as a Shadow/ Meat Wagon type of vehicle can. You at least can tango with it before it takes you out. But I do not recommend Reapers to go and fight against Crimson Fury; it isn't a favorable matchup that you really stand any chance at winning. Back before the patch, you could always use the freeze on it as it didn't tap out as fast as it did now. Although you still had to cock the flamesaw before you froze them anyway, because of the lag factor.
  • In Nuke, attempt to use your RPG on faction leaders or missile launchers so that you can blow up the vehicle as it grabs one.
  • If you're a team mate of Crimson Fury, then stick a RPG on it and let the player guide his vehicle into a cluster and then explode while that player uses the ALT. You'll do an instant 160 damage with each sweep.
• Darkside:
  • This vehicle is completely outclassed against a Reaper. As long as you can avoid touching him, you've pretty much won. Basically, what you want to do is throw a flamesaw at him, if he shields that's fine. You can freeze him after that. If he doesn't shield, then you can connect with either a RPG + Shotgun that's point blank or Power Missile, or a Flamesaw. If he does shield then just wait a second and throw the flamesaw at him. He'll be a one hit kill within the next twenty seconds or so and you only need 8 seconds to get a second freeze. Or you can shoot a stalker missile and kill him by using other weapons. You're basically trying to overwhelm him to the point that he wastes both his shields, then you get free hits on a large, easy to hit target.
  • You can successfully dodge his turret 100%. Make an effort to do so. Also, his primary special is slower than your top speed, so ignore that, and steer clear of him. Keep a good distance between you and him. Darkside's only means of actually having a chance against you is if it uses homing pickups. Otherwise, you can easily defeat any Darkside in a one on one if you're careful and accurately judge the distances. His drop mines also only last for like 10 seconds, so you won't have to worry about them.
  • Remember that you can instantly kill a Darkside doing this combo: force a DS to shield one time, then rear freeze him (this will either force him to shield again or get frozen). If he's frozen, then switch to a RPG and tag him, then shoot a power missile. If he takes a shield, then wait a second and shoot him with another power missile. You can then turn tail and send a rear freeze his way as you make your way to the next opponent. He'll be killed once you explode the RPG as he has no more methods of defense, and he won't be able to move at all.
  • If you're a team mate with Darkside, then use him as a means of sticking RPGs on him. When he gets surrounded, you can help him level the playing field.
  • Remember, against a Darkside, simply let him move in real close and take a shield then apply a flamesaw directly into his grill. If he doesn't shield, then he is half way dead. You can end his life with a RPG.
• Death Warrant:
  • Another matchup that isn't favorable for you. Although this isn't as bad as fighting against a Roadkill, it also isn't as good as fighting against an Outlaw. Your advantage in special packing power and spawning is one that you do not hold in this matchup. Death Warrant's special does a steady damage over 6 seconds, so you're looking at a consistent damage output per usage of shield. This is difficult against you because not only does Death Warrant have very good handling, he's also able to kill you before you may be able to kill it. Those specials recharge and charge faster than your specials would overall. In addition, they are auto aim, while the only useful one you have (the flamesaw) is manual aim. Your goal will certainly be to fight it head-on, and get it to the point where you can disable the shields. You only need to disable one of them to get it to be vulnerable:
    • Start by forcing it to shield once (do not waste any AA at this point), endure the damage as best as you can unless it is something drastic.
    • Then rear freeze it twice, you want to time it so that the Death Warrant can shield the first and the second you are ready to line up a flamesaw with. You'll run out of a AA energy after this, but your next shield will be up before the Death Warrant starts its counterattack.
    • Once it is frozen, and you have your flamesaw ready, do a 180 degree turn and shoot a flamesaw at it. The Death Warrant will lose 150 life and will not have any defensive measures left.
    • Use homings, fires, shotguns, and whatever else you can to kill it.
    • This is only possible because the Death Warrant has a slower tap out rate than a Roadkill.
  • The biggest fear you have of a Death Warrant is its ability to keep up with Reaper's movements. It can actually follow you through any sharp curves, turns, and difficult terrain routes that you can think of all while spamming that auto-aim special. You can always use this to your advantage by leading it through places that you're going to flamesaw.
  • You can RPG it and all, but the setup takes a lot more effort than the Damage you do onto the vehicle. It is possible to RPG it during when it uses the specials, but that's also leaving yourself wide open for a quick swapped attack that it can always bring. In addition, the Death Warrant can start ramming you. That's when the Death Warrant is at its best.
  • A very useful combo is to use the absorption shield to deal 45 damage, and then use the stagger effect of the stalker's in order to line up a flamesaw. If the Death Warrant doesn't shield it, you'll likely kill it.
• Juggernaut:
  • Believe it or not, but this is actually an advantage for you. Your advantages are the following:
    • Mobility and speed - you can easily avoid rams in the open, and move to a position where the targetting cannot hurt you around this vehicle.
    • AA energy - aside from kill streaks, you have a great advantage in regen recovery over a Juggernaut; use it! Force the Juggernaut to waste those absorption shields and then make your attacks mega guns and flamesaws. Use that absorption shield on him, but watch out because he can pull off two consectutive freezes and force the second to actually connect. You can out drive it, but it isn't easy. Lastly use the shield when the Juggernaut gets close.
    • Attacking power - your asset is to inflict not only 150 direct instant damage on a Juggernaut, but also 120 AOE damage that can kill both turret users and damage the Juggernaut. Be sure to use the RPG against a Juggernaut that tries to shield, and the Flamesaw against a Juggernaut without that many shields left, if any. Add in mega guns and he's going to die.
    • Range - Juggernaut has to look for weapons that have targetting to hit you, however, your specials (which are the best method to hit him with) have insane range. They also are effectively directed towards their target. Which mostly means they won't miss unless you miss.
  • In any game that a Juggernaut appears, unless it gets a kill streak going, it is YOUR duty to promptly attack that vehicle until it is dead. Look to attack it from longer distances with Flamesaws if the team mates are helping it out. If it has turret users in it, then stick a RPG and blow it up. There is no reason why a single Reaper shouldn't be able to significantly hurt a Juggernaut on its own.
  • Juggernaut can absorb shield four or five times depending on how much time has passed, so don't allow him to regenerate or start up a kill streak. End things as fast as possible. Remember that you can dodge stalker missiles with Reaper, so don't be afraid to actually shoot some rockets or mega guns or other attacks in a way to make him deplete his AA faster. He has seven shields otherwise, but try your best to force him to use absorption shields. Juggernaut's freezes aren't that big of a problem, just time a jump before you take one and tap out in mid-air. You should regain your forward momentum as soon as you land and avoid any ram attacks from the Juggernaut.
  • It is a one hit kill if you get rammed, or a high damage hit when you bump into it. Avoid that type of situation and try your best to never touch the Juggernaut.
  • Juggernaut has 550 health points, unless they bump that up again, so expect at least 4 flamesaws to kill/ down a Juggernaut. It will take 5 fully cooked RPGs to kill him. Make sure to use those twenty seconds of time effectively to continue doing damage. Also understand that you can always absorb those mines that Juggernaut drops for extra specials. It's almost always going to take around a minute or less to kill a Juggernaut, sometimes longer depending on what weapons you have.
  • If you are on the same team as a Juggernaut, then use the RPG on him and assist him from cluster attacks. You should be able to help him against attacks from Crimsons and Kamikazes or other close range pests.
• Junkyard Dog:
  • This vehicle has good stats in all the catagories, but the most interesting aspect of it is the speed. It is a very fast vehicle and you should never expect it to be easy to fight a vehicle like it. Sure the hit box for it is high, but the speed it has can really make it elusive for long distance flamesaws than vehicles like Sweet Tooth, Warthog, or Darkside. But you will likely have to hit it with two flamesaws to down it.
  • Best method will be to dance around it and then open yourself up for a ram, and put on a shield and use a flamesaw as you take the ram. You'll likely have to quickly recover so that you won't get attacked by a counterattack, but you will have effectively force the vehicle to either take half of its health bar with that ram, and you none, or waste a shield. You can then shoot a rear freeze and attempt to force it to waste that other shield, or wait until you can use another stronger attack. Then it is aim and fire flamesaws at it. You have to respect the secondary special if this is a FFA game, and if it is, then you have to mostly have to fight more of a ranged game and take your shots at a timely manner.
  • Although you can expect a JYD to tap out really fast, you do have enough time to freeze and stick a RPG on him. Doing so lets you effectively put a dent on its armor and keep your distance. It is also a good tactic if it is a team game and the Junkyard Dog is a medic type of player that heals many people. You can do a good deal of harm in those healing situaitons.
  • This is a much more 'fair' matchup in team games than in FFA. That's mostly because the secondary is now a heal attack rather than an AOE shockwave that can leave you with 10 health or can take away 20 HP almost instantly in Close Ranged Combat. Although you can jump over the shockwave, the practicality of it isn't something to bother expecting. Lag, and other variables make it usually pointless to try to do so. Against a Reaper, a JYD can get away with shotgun ALT attacks in FFA type games, since the DD is more important than the self-damage it takes. Other vehicles wouldn't give it the same advantage. The shockwave does take 5 seconds to cook.
  • When you're on the same team, you can really make use of JYD by either using a RPG on him to protect him, or enhance the ramming ability it holds, or to ask for timely mine drops after you use a freeze, since you do have an absorption shield. This tag team can effectively keep up a combo going, and allow the JYD to gather up kill streaks while the Reaper is able to maintain energy at full. Simply freeze with Reaper, then drive over the mine that the JYD drops. You can allow it to get the kill so that it recovers its killstreaks and can fight with better attacks too. As a Reaper, you really don't need killstreaks, aside from turbo and energy: you'll have the energy part, but you'll have to find the turbos.
  • A JYD can heal about 37 health points for you at stage one and 66 at stage two.
• Kamikaze:
  • Not a good matchup for a Reaper. Kamikaze is faster, has a ton more armor, and is really powerful with his specials. Add in the steering factor, and you're looking at a vehicle that will lap all over you. The difference between Kamikaze and Crimson is that Kamikaze won't fall to self-stick RPG tactics, and you'll have to either do a double self-stick RPG combo, or an additional attack after that. But you're likely looking to freeze + flamesaw Kamikaze. AA energy wise, Kamikaze isn't that different from the rest of the vehicles (see below), so you're not really at a disadvantage, but you do have to watch out for those super mines as they can do a heavy deal of damage. Attempt to absorb them because Kamikaze has a much more difficult time dodging stalker missiles than Crimson Fury does.
    • AA Abilities:
    • 2 shields
    • 1 freeze
    • 1 absorption shield
    • 5 super mines
  • The special attacks are pretty strong against a Reaper as well: the primary is weaker than Crimson's, but it does shoot more auto-aim projectiles that can curve, so you have to avoid being within that sort of range. The secondary will deal 20 damage to you and you'll have to thaw out of the freeze before the Kamikaze player hits you with a stronger attack like a power missile or a shotgun. You may want to shield as soon as you hear the charging sounds. However, a Kamikaze won't lose the special if it overheats it, so you'll have to really pay attention. Although you can jump over it, chances are that it will land too fast for you to react. But do as best as you can, it can save you a shield. Most Kamikaze players will attempt to ram into you before one, which will do a good amount of damage and freeze you, so avoid that situation as best as you can.
  • You'll want to go for the one hit kill: flamesaw it with precision and aim, or freeze and quickly flamesaw it. Never try and exchange missiles with a Kamikaze, as that's usually a lot of missiles in advance, compared to one or two that Kamikaze has to shoot at you.
  • I would argue that sometimes this is one of your hardest matchups because of the sheer advantage in statistics, but you do have a closer speed connection than you did against Crimson Fury. This can allow you to stand a better chance against Kamikaze than against Crimson Fury; plus, Kamikaze's specials aren't as deadly as Crimson Fury's specials. You'll likely last in a fight longer than you could against Crimson especially considering the regen rates and what not.
  • In team games, this is your number one option to beg for as a Reaper. A Kamikaze and a Reaper can easily provide more freeze abilities than any other combo. If you play them right, you can effectively kill packs with just these two. The ALT can be used to open up space for Reaper's flamesaws and make sure that the damage is done. This combo is based on the fact that Kamikaze has the ability to drop the most mines anywhere, and Reaper can freeze (forward or rear) and still have enough to use an absorption shield. You already have at least 5 freeze attacks with Kamikaze, but now you also have an almost infinite supply with Reaper. In addition, you can use shield twice and still have enough for an absorption shield. Lastly, you may also have ability to use the RPG on Kamikaze and allow it to travel around alone.
  • In Nuke, treat it like you would a Crimson Fury, but the difference between them is that Kamikaze can EMP and help Reaper sacrifice. Although it doesn't offer the same speed, and flamethrower range as Crimson, it does allow Reaper the best support of any other vehicle.
  • Overall, Kamikaze is a lot better to have as a team mate than an opponent. Especially for a Reaper. As a Kamikaze can mow down those pesky damage over time users and allow the Reaper to overcome the unfavorable matchups like Roadkill, Death Warrant, Outlaw, and so on.
• Meat Wagon:
  • Highly unfavorable matchup. If you see more than one of them together, then you're certainly going to die with Reaper going against them. The issue is that the Meat Wagon's primary special is auto-aim and WILL stagger your vehicle (jumping around and all) unless you use an absorption shield. This stagger can cripple you effectively and allow the Meat Wagon to attack with other devasting attacks. In addition, it can use the secondary to one shot kill you. Although possible, the chances of that isn't as high because your vehicle can usually run away. Of course, you have to be very cautious when you're going after a Meat Wagon that's hiding behind a corner. One of the most brutal things it can do is use the primary and then ram  you. You may not have the option to shield the ram if the Meat Wagon player can time it properly. To add to the difficulty, the Meat Wagon's special does 40 damage, so you have to shield regardless. It homes stupidly well! And it can go around and follow you over ramps, through streets, and various other places. Although you can jump over it, the chance of that being practical isn't high. You're hoping to attempt something that's pretty much going to explode without even making impact underneath you. Not only that, but a Meat Wagon has 210 HP, so a single flamesaw won't get the job done.
    • You'll have to take a different approach on a Meat Wagon by using a free-aimed flamesaw (versus a Meat Wagon, it isn't that hard since the Meat Wagon is a fairly simple target to hit as it is slow and long) and then timing a freeze so that the flamesaw hits first and then the freeze hits. If you do it right, you can allow yourself to get in a Point Blank shotgun or a power missile hit and kill the Meat Wagon with one hit. If not, then you can can at least do 40 damage and take away the rest with missiles.
    • You'll have to watch out for 4 Gurney being shot one after the other (if the Meat Wagon waits about 2 minutes to stack them up). Also, be very careful of your actions as a Meat Wagon can shield twice.
    • You may also perform tactics like absorb the primary gurney and then aim a flamesaw at a popped up Meat Wagon from the stalker missile.
    • Or you can use the Flamesaw + self-stick RPG combo to two hit kill the Meat Wagon.
    • Regardless of your methods, you have to actually treat a Meat Wagon with respect and attempt to take the most caution you can around it. It is one of the most lethal Reaper killers out there. But you do have the advantage in turning ability and speed:
      • You are significantly faster than the Meat Wagon--fast enough to close the gap and move within close range.
      • Your ability to turn while in that range easily defeats Meat Wagon's ability to turn. When you get into that range, simply avoid staying in an area that it can lock onto you from the front or the rear. Use shotguns and swarms and stalkers as you slash and cut around it, until you get it to the point that you can freeze it. This method allows you to avoid the primary gurney, but you are vulnerable to a shotgun ALT that the Meat Wagon can do. That's a one hit kill, so watch out for that.
      • I do not recommend fighting Meat Wagons, unless you can get that freeze off and finish it before it can fire off more than 1 primary gurney. You can take one, but you certainly cannot take more than 1.
  • If you're on the same team as a Meat Wagon, then ask for the Meat Wagon to shoot its primary to juggle an opponent (thus slowing them down and giving you an easier aim on a target with a flamesaw) so that you can flamesaw that opponent. Or have them come behind you and use the secondary like a shotgun after your initial freeze + flamesaw attack. Even if it doesn't kill, the Meat Wagon will knock the opponent off-balance anyway. This can allow you to tag the Meat Wagon with a RPG and then blow that up and allow the opponent to be off-balance longer. Or it can let you end the fight. But the reality is that a Meat Wagon isn't that easy to work with unless it either finishes the job for you or helps you out by surfacing easier flamesaws on opponents.
  • As a Reaper, you want to really pay careful attention to a Meat Wagon's position on the map, and on the field. It can really limit your abilities to attack. Do not dare face a Meat Wagon and another vehicle when they are both focused on you. You'll usually lose against that situation. You have a slight chance to fight against a Meat Wagon in a one on one, but that's not really easy since it requires you to close the gap and avoid a one hit kill. Normally, you should attempt to avoid fighting against these vehicles as often as you get.
• Outlaw:
  • Outlaw pretty much eats two flamesaws. In long range fights, you can easily kill an Outlaw with long range flamesaws or RPGs. In close range fights, you're likely going to want to use self-stick RPGs to kill him. As those are the most "safe" methods of fighting against him. You can even do a double self-stick on yourself to kill him. I wouldn't ask you to try it though since Outlaws can be a very a hard matchup for Reaper. This is mostly because the damage over time special it has can be shot without aiming and it can be rear fired. It'll pretty much hit you regardless of what you do, unless you hide or shield to avoid damage. Since it lasts 5 seconds, you're not really able to do anything against an Outlaw that can dish out a high number of damage from just tapping buttons. You honestly do not want to fight against Outlaws in a one on one without any means of cover. You also want to go for Flamesaw hits and such. You really don't want to let him continue to spam that special.
  • Outlaw's stats are pretty balanced, so you're looking at a fight with a somewhat fast vehicle and good attributes all around, except in the turning department. Outlaw's exploit that you can feast on is his slower acceleration/ start up speed, so you can really mess him with flamesaws during that phase. Outlaw's special can vibrate your controller, but it doesn't really leave Reaper affected in any way to change his overall composure.
  • Outlaw has the advantage in armor, range, and ramming toughness. You have the advantage in turning, attack power, and AA abilities. Speed isn't much a factor since his special can cancel that out and you don't have any real option to use it.
  • It can rear fire the alternate, so be very aware of that and avoid following it. The primary is a 360 degree auto-aim turret.
  • Fighting it from long range is the best choice. Rely on swarms, remote bombs, stalkers, and flamesaws to get the job done. In close range fights, you want to rely on self-stick RPGs and use the four shields as you force it to waste the AA on your shotguns and power missiles.
  • If it starts running away, do not chase after it. The risk is not worth the effort.
  • If you're on the same team as an Outlaw, then simply let it play finisher to your flamesaws. You can tag it with a RPG, but few vehicles (other than Kamikaze) really would like to go up to an Outlaw in close range (it can destroy larger vehicles with the ALT special, and it can ram the crap out of the smaller vehicles with the size it holds... So, other than Kamikaze, there's really no vehicle that would want to deal with an Outlaw) and so it won't be that effective unless Outlaw does the closing in on people. Other than that, Outlaw usually is disruptive to have on your team.
• Reaper:
  • This fight isn't that hard, especially in FFA or TDM type of settings. Your key things to watch out for are:
    • AA usage. The battles will be decided by which Reaper uses their AA for what type of attack they are doing. An offensive Reaper can lose to a Reaper that only spams homing missiles and uses the four shields. However, an offensive Reaper can go for the one hit kill with a Stalker Missile (even if it ends up being shielded) and a Flamesaw.
    • Flamesaw over chainsaw (unless the opposing Reaper has stopped) becasue the chainsaw is so easy to dodge as a Reaper that you pretty much have to hope that the Reaper is bull-rushing into you to get it to hit. The flamesaw will not curve, so if you can aim it, you can kill the Reaper instantly. Flamesaw ramming into a Reaper works really well, but you're going to more often than not feast on a Reaper with the mid-range game.
    • Self-stick RPG = instant kill. Just remember that you can flamesaw/ chainsaw, and then stick a RPG on yourself. Use that and then move in close and go for the kill.
    • And of course, using homings, remotes, charged ricos, napalms, rockets sidearms, sniper rifle shells, shotguns (up close) and stalkers are your main source of damaging the Reapers. But the absorption shield is your biggest asset and probably your best way to kill a Reaper.
  • In team settings, it is best to freeze the opposing Reaper and simply interfere with what he's doing. As long as you can keep the Reaper from attacking your team mates, you can effectively keep the Reaper at bay. Freezing a Reaper prior to a ram is perfect to hurt the Reaper. Other than that, Reaper versus Reaper matches usually end up being about how the Reaper can attack that game. If the Reaper is doing heavy damage while the other is worried about their KDR, then the heavy damage doing Reaper will likely leave the game with a lower KDR ratio, but a victory.
  • When you're on the same team, then you can effectively Freeze + Flamesaw spam the whole game and drop mines to continue this. You can also use the RPGs to suicide bomb (taking turns) at opponents, or help each other set up self-stick RPGs. I wouldn't really expect two Reapers being a good balance for a team as those are prone to lose in terms of armor anyway.
  • There's really no way to describe this, a better Reaper player will usually end the other Reaper's life. There are some Reapers that only attack from behind, so against confrontational Reapers, those type aren't really suited for this sort of thing.
• Roadboat:
  • The fact that Roadboat is so slow is what makes this an easy matchup. That primary may home, but it's something easier to dodge, only really hard if you're trying to dodge it while in reverse. That secondary is only good if it can distort your flamesaws, but you can release faster than it can pull you towards it. Majority of the time, the magnet will not be very effective against you. Especially with your tap out rate. Even if the Roadboat pulls you in, you can stick a RPG on him during that moment.
  • Things to watch out for would obviously be the primary special (which staggers you) and a ram. That's the most realistically threatening attack it can do. The magnet can sometimes ram you, but it isn't as lethal because you can usually fight it off or avoid it.
  • Your Flamesaws are easy to line up against Roadboat because he's so slow of a target, and he effectively faces you during his magnet attack. Which is basically your whole means of offense: throw Flamesaws until one connects, and then kill him off with conventional weapons.
  • If a Roadboat is your team mate, then you can do a number of things:
    • Have him grip and hold an enemy and face you; this allows you to hit them with a flamesaw. You can also do it when he's pulling them, but that's obviously harder.
    • Stick an RPG on him and have him suck up a player into his magnet: blow it up for a 120 damage attack. You can also use that magnet to stick players with RPGs and then have Roadboat send them away.
    • Drop super mines and have the Roadboat carry the player through them. You can drop two of them.
    • Freeze those players so that they don't escape the magnet before a Roadboat can throw them off into the air.
    • You can perform a double self-stick RPG for 120 damage (each RPG) with his help:
      • Step one, plant one on yourself.
      • Step two, let it charge for 5 seconds.
      • Step three, communicate with the Roadboat on a select target.
      • Step four, have him magnet and pull a target.
      • Step five, as the Roadboat is pulling, jump and shield then explode to detonate the RPG. The Roadboat should still be pulling him though and 120 damage should be registering.
      • Step six, self-stick the RPG again, you should be able to after you have detonated the first one.
      • Step seven, allow the Roadboat to keep him busy for 5 more seconds.
      • Step eight, shield and detonate the second RPG in front of the enemy. That should do it.
      • You can continue this as long as you have specials in your inventory.
  • Roadboat is a pretty easy kill for a Reaper if you have the weapons and space to operate against him.
• Roadkill:
  • This is one of the most annoying fights you'll face. Not only is the special one that will kill you, but it is a special that evenly can take away 1/3 of your health if you don't use cover or 2 to 3 shields. It is auto-aim and will instantly hit you at a very hard to avoid rate. To be honest, it feels overpowering since your only way to defend yourself is to freeze or hide/ run away. That's only the secondary. The primary is fast and can take half of your health away if you don't shield. It regenerates the specials at a high rate as well. Higher than 40 seconds it used to have. The worst part is the range. It has very good range with those blood missiles and they're very accurate.
  • Not to mention how fast it can tap out of freeze, and the fact that it comes with two shields... Those are but minor details.
  • You don't even stand a single chance in this matchup. It is unfair. Not only do you fail to compete in any range, but your only way to fight is to rely on a flamesaw that can connect, and then kill it. If Roadkill didn't have the second shield, you may just stand a very good chance.
  • I would never recommend you going against Roadkills. It isn't a good matchup and requires you to have impressive flamesaw aim just to compete. You can exchange bullets with him, nor can you attack him, so you're honestly beat. Only thing you can hope to do is throw Remote Bombs and use those while running.
  • The hardest to kill Roadkills are the ones that can fight you in the mid-range game area. Otherwise, they hold the advantage in every other range, but you can win out in the Close Range battle if you can use the self-stick RPG/ Remote Bombs to kill them. Your shields outlast theirs. However, Roadkill players fight in the mid-range game, some even use the long range one with their secondary. In those ranges, you will not be able to compete unless you can spam remote bombs and hide.
  • If a Roadkill is your team mate, then let that player kill off your wounded targets as that's the best use of a Roadkill. You can also use RPG to protect them, and allow them to fight in more close range fights, but it is entirely up to you. Other than that, there's really no synergy between RK and Reaper.
• Shadow:
  • Shadow is a god against you in Close Quarters Combat. You cannot compete with that blast radius UNLESS you can get behind Shadow and use Shadow as a cover to avoid the blast (it doesn't go through walls, and other surfaces, like a vehicle). Otherwise, Shadow cannot lose against a Reaper unless it becomes a long range matchup. In open levels with a long range area, you stand a chance, but in cramped areas, the only thing you can do is self-stick a RPG and go kamikaze at it.
  • Shadow's ALT can be "stopped" in mid-air, and dropped/ detonated in mid-air to a spot in front of it. You can successfully explode it above and still affect things on the ground. You can also have it fully charged by flinging it across the map, which it can actually do on pretty much all the maps. The primary is a lot easier to deal with, but do not chase after a Shadow, as that primary can kill.
  • It is a highly one-sided matchup. Shadow can effectively spam that ALT special for 30, 60, or 70 damage and retain the ability to stagger you. Although you can absorb the hit, Shadow will still have 230 health points against your 90. Even with the stalker connecting, you still have to make up the damage somehow, even if you were to flamesaw Shadow accurately.
  • Not to mention that Shadow has good balanced speed, and turning (though it can't do it with an ALT in place), it becomes a harder vehicle to fight against.
  • There is a weakness; the radar. Shadow's radar doesn't show it where you are. Be sure to use that to your advantage and attack it from longer ranges. It can hurt Shadow because of that. However, be frightful of smarter Shadow players that know how to open the radar up. Those players will be able to react just fine. Flamesaws travel very fast, so you can hit the Shadows from longer ranges, but it isn't that easy. Other than that, you don't stand a chance.
  • Shadow is one of the most potently powerful vehicles in the game: with only one technical weakness involving its regen rate and tap out rate. The camera can limit a player, but it's not going to drastically eliminate a player. Against Reaper, the matchup is quite frankly impossible to compete with. Because of that annoying stagger ability. Scratch the blast radius being enormous, the stagger will completely leave Reaper vulnerable to combo'd attacks like a barrage of homings and fires.
  • You do not want to fight a Shadow, unless you can get it to inflict self-damage on itself, then run and recover your AA, and come back with the same amount of AA (full) against Shadow's 2 sheilds, 1 less special, or something else that will give you a better advantage. You can't win if you stay and fight against Shadow.
  • In team situations, Shadow allows you to combine AOE RPG and Coffin Bombs for a variaty of uses. Of course, the best thing you can do is stagger foes with Shadow and then Flamesaw those off-balance guys with Reaper.
  • On Nuke, Shadow and Reaper can effectively defend extremely well. Coffin Bombs can cover areas outside of Reaper's RPG that can protect launchers.
    • If it needs to be repeated, you won't win against a Shadow using a Reaper unless you're able to connect with flamesaws from long range, or self-stick RPGs and kamikaze into Shadow so that it burns those shields. You will have to take your time. It is a very one-sided matchup, and one that isn't even close to being in your favor.
• Sweet Tooth:
  • The only thing that can be annoying about Sweet Tooth (without bot form) is that he can shoot those laughing ghosts as extra shields. You can use them as ways to miss up targeting freezes, or ways to block flamesaws and other missiles. Those are really the only thing that you should worry about from this form. Other than that, it is 2 flamesaws against an easy to hit target. You shouldn't be bothered by it.
  • When he goes bot, you're screwed. Auto-aim Mega Guns are impossible to deal with. Especially a vehicle that will usually kill you before you can try and kill him. Shockwave is essentially a diffcult to fight against attack, not to mention the ramming potential it can offer which would overwhelm you. And of course, the auto-aim ram makes him invincible to freezes during it so you're likely going to get rammed too. All in all, Sweet Bot makes him a dynamic and very difficult to fight vehicle. It's mostly harder to compete with this vehicle when Bot is unleashed. You can stand a chance if you can get him to waste a shield, but no smart/ wise Sweet Bot player would care to waste shields on attacks that can't do heavy damage. Your hope is to either attempt to use a sniper or hope to get the ST down on the ground. RPG is possible, but Sweet Tooth players aren't usually the types that wish to "stand still" and hover in place like a Trigunning Talon would.
  • There's very little to discuss against Sweet Tooth since a Reaper would defeat a ST on land without any problem. In Bot, a Sweet Tooth becomes pretty darn deadly since you can't hope to compete against something like that. Always attempt to flamesaw and then freeze so that you can prevent him from running; which you'd follow up with a flamesaw again.
  • Against abusing Sweet Tooths, just run the heck away from them! They kill you much easier than you can even try and kill them.
• Talon:
  • You won't win this fight unless the Talon you're fighting against has no experience. Because it normally comes down to this:
    • Hide and shoot stalkers.
    • Flamesaw it out of the sky.
    • Stick a RPG on it.
    • Use Remote Bombs on it and hide.
  • What I do is usually use the absorption shield and two red shields against Talons. I usually attempt to have some remotes and stalkers on hand. I try and get Talon to burn two shields and kill it using absorption shield or stalkers/ remote bombs. Remember, Talon cannot dodge Stalkers (fully charged). Everything else, including freeze, it can pretty much dodge.
  • If a Talon uses the magnet, you can stick it with a RPG. You can even self-stick yourself prior to the magnet and blow up as it sucks you up.
  • The reason why this is so lopsided against a Reaper is this:
    • AA regen rate is second to yours, but it is good enough to compete with you. Not to mention the ability to fly and dodge, Talon can counter you shield for shield, which is the only vehicle other than Reaper that can manage to be as defensive as you.
    • It has 120 health points; you have 90.
    • It is faster, faster than you, but you have the ability to hide.
    • It can hide better than you can. (yeah, I know!)
    • It has an auto-aim turret. You have a manual aim flamesaw and RPG, which is slow, and a auto-tracking chainsaw, which can't hit anything.
    • It dodges homing missiles: you can only hope they miss.
    • It can reach all the pickups faster than you can. You can't even bother going out of your way trying to get them.
    • It has auto-aim mega guns. You have to aim up.
    • It can humilate you in long ranges... You can only aim RPGs and hope they stick.
  • In fact, the only advantage you have is that Talon has a large hit box for your flamesaws and you can turbo dash around.
  • You do want to fight against Talons, but you will want to try and RPG them or freeze + flamesaw them. If you can, then flamesaw them while in the air. It won't be easy, but you'll have to try and do that.
  • If you can't do that, then move to plan B which is to hide and use Remote Bombs and Stalkers to take him out slowly.
  • Nonetheless, a Reaper is capable of attacking a Talon, but he's only good for it if you can catch the Talon by surprise. Otherwise, you're looking at doing random looking flamesaws and off-the-chart lucky RPGs. Leave Talon to the auto-aim turret users.
• Vermin:
  • This guy is annoying for Reapers. Sure, you can kill him easy, but there's a lot of problems with him:
    • Primary Special:
      • Auto-aim and it does 30 damage.
      • Dodged only by a shield (staggers a Reaper nonetheless) or by using a Turbo Dash at the right angle.
      • Forward fire only, but can be combined with a ram attack...
    • Secondary Special:
      • If it locks onto you, that's 50 damage that's auto-aim and the only thing you do is avoid it by shielding or hiding behind something. It also removes the flame effect from a flamesaw. Makes it even harder to attack a Vermin using this.
      • When in this form, Vermin takes reduced damage. Flamesaws do 49 damage. You'll have to stick a RPG on him instead of 150.
      • The explosion that's like an AOE attack can do 20 damage and it can stagger too.
      • Direct hit = one hit kill. A vermin can use AA abilities while piloting the rat rocket, so he can freeze you and then directly hit you.
      • A Vermin can also shield/ turbo dash/ use AA prior to actually having visual return to it.
  • As a team mate of a Vermin, you can stick a RPG on him when he's launching and attack any person trying to kill him when he's vulnerable.
• Warthog:
  • Basically, you need to get two flamesaws in. Force a shield first, then freeze, if the WH doesn't take a second shield, then go ahead and either do a RPG combo on him, or flamesaw and then quick swap combos. Lastly, attack him like normal after that with a flamesaw.
  • Easy hitbox as he's a big target.
  • He can crush while backing up, so watch out.
  • Anything that hits his red box when he's using a special is double damage. One flamesaw = instant death for him.
  • If you're a team mate to him, then stick remote bombs on him. People like to attack him a lot in bunches, especially Reapers.
  • Only thing to really watch out for is the shockwave, and that can be jumped over. Aside from that, just watch out for the turbo ram.
  • It is best to attack him swiftly because he only has a 40 second special regen recharge rate.

So here's a summary:

• Favorable Matchups:
  • Juggernaut (with killstreaks, he's a mismatch)
  • Darkside
  • Roadboat
  • Reaper
  • Axel
• Unfavorable Matchups:
  • Roadkill
  • Meat Wagon
  • Outlaw
  • Death Warrant
  • Vermin
  • Talon
  • Shadow
  • Kamikaze
  • Crimson Fury
• Balanced Matchups:
  • Junkyard Dog (FFA is an unfavorable one, though)
  • Warthog (smaller maps, he's a mismatch)
  • Sweet Tooth (Sweet Bot is a mismatch for you)

Look to fight against Darksides, Juggernauts, Warthogs, Sweet Tooths (non flight), Warthogs, Junkyard Dogs (non-FFA), Axels, Roadboats, and other Reapers. If the moment lets you take out a Shadow, Outlaw, Meat Wagon, Death Warrant or Talon with a freeze + flamesaw then go for it, otherwise, don't force those fights. As always, be very careful around a Roadkill, Kmaikaze, Crimson Fury, and Vermin as those vehicles can absolutely murder you. Meat Wagon and Shadow are your primary threats, as they can instantly kill you, where as Vermin is one of those vehicles that can really limit you the whole game.You're looking to pretty much fight against vehicles that are bigger, slower, and much easier to hit than vehicles that are faster, smaller, or whatever than you are. The big armored vehicles is where you ought to feast against, and only should you be looking for other vehicles unless you can freeze + flamesaw them from behind. Roadboats and Axels are pretty mcuh your best matchups, not counting Darkside. With Axel being as far as an easy kill for you. Reapers are simply easy to kill if you play your cards right.But your job is to deal heavy damage so that the other team mates can gather easier kills and earn kill streaks. A Reaper is a very devasting opponent in team games because it can effectively change the balance of a fight with one blow and decide the outcome in the final seconds. It holds only one advantage and that is against a Darkside. But even that isn't worth much if the Darkside uses conventional weapons.

Flamesawing:

What is necessary?

• Driving Ability - it is more necessary to be able to drive than to really aim.
• Quick Reaction Speed - it is much more reliable to have a faster reaction speed/ release than you have an accurate shot.
• Balance - it is much more important to hold balance than to aim better.

What I am saying is that you do not have to "have" perfect aim with a flamesaw. The reason is because the speed of the flamesaw can offset the aim, and the usual targets, the big cars, have good hit boxes that are easy to aim for. The smaller vehicles, however, speed and aim is essential especially against Reapers and Crimson Furys. Only good Reapers will make a living killing those vehicles with flamesaws. Or even the ones that target Talons and Sweet Tooths in the air. You don't have to have perfect aiming, though, as that's not really that important for you unless you're trying to make yourself into the best ever.

Your first and most important thing to know is to fight in areas with "level ground" which means flat and even landscape. The reason being is that all you have to do is line up your crosshair (without messing with the camera) and throw a flamesaw. It will go straight and connect with anything in its path; because everything in its path is on the same plain/ level. Once you know that, you won't really have to do anything except "move" your onscreen crosshair curser at a target and cock the flamesaw to release it. This is a simple process that I call "forward flamesawing" and the reason why is because you're simply looking for anything that lines up with the curser and shooting the flamesaw at it. It would be like you're aiming a power missile, except it's more like a Stalker Missile (without any charge to it) since the aiming is 100% fixed ahead of time. Majority of the Reapers can do it, as it isn't that difficult at all, since the speed that the flamesaw travels is very very fast and will likely hit anything in front of it. That is why I often recommend fighting on level, even ground where you can effectively flamesaw.

Of course, there are much more difficult ways to flamesaw and that would ultimately require better driving skill than you need for "forward flamesawing" since you're actually moving into the flamesawing while in motion aspect. In order to flamesaw in motion, you must first have momentum. Second, the term is mostly used by me to describe a more complex way of flamesawing (the reason it isn't simple is because you're rarely facing an enemy and thus avoiding being an easier target, while maintaining a highly accurate flamesaw) and I name it "reverse flamesawing" since you normally would be driving around in reverse. In order to get used to flamesawing while driving in reverse, you will have to learn how to lead a flamesaw. Or you will want to have the flamesaw cocked on the outside, while you move and steer Reaper towards the center, or where your target is. Doing this will give you a chance to adjust and angle the flamesaw inside, rather than have your momentum push it more outside. You will need excellent driving ability while in reverse, like being able to weave in and out to avoid missiles, as well as turn corners, and also being able to change directions on a dime while still having enough speed to release a flamesaw and accuracy to lead it into the direction enemies will follow you. Some pointers are:

• Aim the flamesaw where you feel they will cut off of a drift from a corner and start to turn and face you (the flamesaw will have enough of delay before the release to adjust and fit to the opposing players movements, plus it will also have enough speed to disallow the opponents to dodge it if you lead it perfectly, since the speed of the saw is hard to react to).
• Always start up the flamesaw by first tapping accelerate then hard pulling the stick backwards to reverse turbo (as this can cut and charge it simply faster, while giving you a better chance at avoiding attacks).
• You'll want to drive going to either the left or right while in reserve, then popping inside or outside (basically opposite direction of where you're driving) to throw the flamesaw towards the middle. You'll basically line up the shot with whoever is chasing you this way.
• You're slower than your maximum speed while driving around in reverse, so do not let players get past you as that will be too hard for you to make a crude turn to get them with a flamesaw.
• Reverse Charging a flamesaw is the fastest way to charge one. Make sure you master this so you can quickly toss flamesaws at crowds from far away.
• The only thing you should be aware of is which direction will your opponent go: and that's the only place you ought to aim at while driving around in reverse. If the opponent doesn't change their direction, then flamesaw forward.
• You'll want to learn this so that you can avoid stalkers, swarms, and fire missiles, as well as some other attacks, and then line up a shot. You'll have a very little release point, so you're pretty much hoping to change and adjust the direction while actually cocking the flamesaw.

There isn't much difference between these two forms of flamesawing (forward versus reverse) except that the reverse player is much more accustomed to fighting and dodging in the open areas, where as the foward one is more prone to hitting and running.

Then, of course, there are levels even higher than this that request Reapers even more than before: I'd like to revert to those as Flamesawing experts, as they can actually flamesaw and control Reaper's drift while in-motion. It seems simple, but it takes a very long time to actually get a feel for. For those complicated flamesawing techniques, you're pretty much going to have to steer Reaper's direction with the square (acceleration) and cross (tight turn) buttons. You will be in your highest speed, so you're looking to flamesaw while in that position and you will likely have to flamesaw and spin after those during the setup sequence. It will be a quick jolt of the stick, and you'll need to feel for the placement/ direction of the enemy. These type of flamesaws are mostly a "WTF???" type of situation since they do look rather random, but you can effectively master getting them pretty accurate. The best part is that you can always continue to maintain your maximum speed.

• You will be holding onto the square and cross buttons. You'll also obviously be steering. While in reverse, you're going to swap to the cross button to simply make the quick adjustment, or use the square button to adjust as well.
  • While holding accelerate and going straight... tapping cross and then releasing it will let you do a quick turn, You can then release the square button, and continue to hold the cross button to make the turn sharper, or you can feint and use both to keep the momentum more stable, or completely stop.
  • Cross button followed by square gives you the ability to make a quick 180 degree rotation. You can press both at the same time and hold those buttons to stall your vehicle. This stalling gives you a quicker rotation speed, so you can flamesaw facing one direction and then turn and completely hit someone on the other direction.
  • Alternating between pressing square or cross gives you a random movement. You can then pick a direction based on when you stabilize the vehicle by pressing both cross and square at the same time or using square to head forward (same with turbo reverse).
  • You're basically using the sensitivity of cross and square together to allow yourself better control during the startup animation of that flamesaw--which lets you make a sharper turn and increases your attacking area that you can aim at with a flamesaw.
  • You may also use this against vehicles that pass by you, and hit them with a flamesaw.
  • While driving around in reverse, you're going to use the square and cross buttons to stabilize and put you into a stop, sometimes even swivel you to the sides a lot, then shoot a flamesaw. This action sort of halts Reapers and gives him the option to control his aiming at a very dynamic turning ratio. It is very fast, but it you have good "feel" with it, you can effectively use this to get a lot of vehicles.
  • While in reverse, you can also hit, then use the cross button to level yourself and remain in motion to go and transform your stance to forward Reaper.
• This dynamic usage of Reaper's difficult to control, but possible, steering lets you effectively swap between Reverse and Forward Flamesawing stances. It allows you to accurately make difficult shots, or crude turning shots, while remaining in your top speed and drifting around corners. It also lets you make shots that you're moving sideways around vehicles. Overall, it is a very hard tactic to learn, but it is certainly worth it since it allows you to release flamesaws even when you're not facing an opponent and then adjust them while in the cocking animation to the point that they hit the target in the end, and you'll be able to change your direction instantly during that. Which is why I stress driving ability and control as the fundamental necessary tool to flamesawing. Once you understand the timing, and when to cock the saw, release, and turn, then you'll be able to do it without much difficulty and almost like a ballet.
• I would certainly rate this as one of the most difficult things you can do with Reaper, as it is very very difficult to perform. To develop this technique, you'll have to play a few "Flamesaw Challenge" rounds against other vehicles or players. I developed it early when I noticed that Reaper could dodge attacks while moving around in circles (while going in forward or reverse) with ease. It didn't take me long to time them with flamesaws, as counterattacks, during those movements. Eventually I was able to do spins and master the actual square and cross button usage to manipulate Reaper's steering effectively enough to aim extremely well. To set these up, just enable specials only, and then practice trying to hit the other vehicle while maintaining your motion, and use the square and cross buttons to adjust your shots after you start up the flamesaw. Doing it with another Reaper is usually a lot of good fun. So you can hope to find a buddy that wants to do it and practice together. But you'll basically learn to control Reaper after doing it plenty of times, and you'll be able to do spins and flamesaws without really even looking at an opponent.

Pass and Go Flamesaw. This is a simple thing to do. You're basically starting your flamesaw's throwing animation one second in advance and then running by a vehicle (which has to be on your drivers side) and slamming the flamesawing into them, while you steer to the right and avoid it's ram/ hit. Very easy to do and you can also use a shield too, and actually slam into the vehicle. It is all about timing, but it is your best method for maps that have a crowded area with a lot of turns.

Drifting flamesaws is hard, might be one of the hardest things, but you're basically flamesawing in motion and combining a pass and go flamesaw at once. Rather than just driving by them, you're drifting around the corner and either hitting them as they pass, or sliding around them and flamesawing them on the side. You'll have to have great control of Reaper and time it effectively to pull it off.

Turning: you can't turn as good towards your drivers side. Always attempt to flamesaw targets that passed you going to the passenger's side.

Jumping and Flamesawing. Probably the hardest thing to do. You'll have to time your hits perfectly. You'll use the jumping at either the last second before release or right at the point where the character will flamesaw going downward, so that the saw travels down. If you start to add in drifting and motion sawing, then you're looking at complex tactics. It is very hard to flamesaw this way. But, it does look really cool when you can actually land them. I wouldn't recommend messing with the flat surface, as it can make your flamesaws fly over the top of targets. But you may want to invest some practice for bumpy maps like Diesel and things like that, as those you'll have to jump saw to get targets above areas. It is effective against jumping vehicles and Warthog, since you can flamesaw and avoid taking a hit from a shockwave.

Aiming the flamesaw. The recoil is very very high. So, for each slight rise, the aim will increase much more higher than before. Against Sweet Tooth and Talons, you're aiming lower than the actual position of them. You should practice on destructible objects like in LA Rooftops. You certainly have to have a feel for shooting at flying things. You also have to watch out for their ability to turn and change directions. It is MUCH easier to hit a standing still Talon than to lead a flamesaw at a Talon. But remember that this won't often be practical. Using the RPG is a much better effect now, as it'll hit and stick.

You can perform quick swaps after flamesaws/ chainsaws (switching weapons after the flamesaw's toss animation is started) in order to capitalize on attacks. But be sure that you have the weapon of choice you want to use. You could also use this to transition into a self-stick RPG too. This tactic will cut the time down and you can skip the whole "release" animation and have a Stalker or other weapon ready to use.

Freezing is very useful. It allows you to play defensive, as well as offensive. Freeze attacks that spam, like flamethrowers, damage over time chainguns, etc. Use it also to prevent Roadboat's magnets, Reaper's flamesaw, and any other windup attack; swarms/ stalkers type of things. For offense, it lets you catch super fast, hard to hit mobile targets. You can rear freeze twice in one energy bar, and frontal freeze once as well. Frontal freeze is better for the faster vehicles with a high tap out rate since you can cock the flamesaw and use the freeze to simply slow down the vehicle then just adjust the flamesaw into the direction of the vehicle. Rear freeze the slower vehicles since you can turn and flamesaw them just as fast or faster than they can unthaw. You can do a double rear freeze one after the other, in order to force them to take one, since you can't absorb shield that many, but it is a gamble. But I will tell you to really work on that freeze + flamesaw release since that is what you'll be doing when you can afford to do it and have your AA recover off of kill streaks. In order to increase your speed, you have to aim the flamesaw during the throwing animation. Only way to clog guys like Andy_French and other fast tap out players.

Also do understand that any small "bump" can make you miss your flamesaws, so make sure to throw and launch them on level surfaces, or as controlled as you can. The better your aim gets, the more advanced your Reaper play will become. The better you are with the flamesaw, then the better you become with the Reaper.

Self-Sticking RPGs and Remote Bombs:

Remote Bombs:

1. Get a remote bomb.
2. Equip the remote bomb as your primary weapon.
3. Jump one time.
4. Upon touching the ground, press "jump" again in order to perform a "double" jump which gives you more air.
5. Prior to reaching the top (apex) of your jump, rear fire the remote bomb. It will fly in the air longer than you.
6. Position yourself underneath it and catch the remote bomb as it drops. It should stick on you.
7. It will glow red (fully-charged) after 5 seconds and will not explode on its own until 2 minutes have passed since you used it. That means you have 2 minutes to either pass it to someone else or explode it yourself.
8. It will show up on the radar so that enemies can see it, be careful of that.
9. It does 75 daamge to enemies within the blast radius and you should take a shield.

RPGs:

• Method One:
  1. You'll need two specials in your inventory.
  2. Place one anywhere, by switching to your alternate and shoot a RPG somewhere into the distance or whatever you want (you will blow this up so it doesn't really matter where you put it).
  3. Swap weapons, so that you may drive around and you'll see the RPG as you swap back to specials, but without the crosshairs. You'll need a good amount of turbo and it is easier to do it on flat surfaces. Anyway, once you're on your special again, proceed to the next step.
  4. Simultaneous do the following:
     1. Drive forward (accelerate), then pop a wheelie while turbo reversing-- use the square and cross buttons (accelerate and tight turn) to position yourself so that you're standing in a wheelie while moving in either direction.
     2. Blow up the self-standing RPG and then it will revert to the crosshair screen, you want to do step one at the same time as you get this crosshair screen popping up. Your objective is to quickly use the right stick to aim down and quickly tap the fire button so that the RPG can stick to the top of the wheel during your wheelie while you still have momentum (I use the cross button to keep myself in the air and balance myself better).
     3. A message should appear twice, in two different colors, saying that you stuck a RPG on yourself.
  5. You will have a minute to find a target and explode the RPG before it explodes on its own. You can do 120 damage to targets in the blast radius, and 60 on the outside. It also takes 5 seconds to charge to full damage.
  6. You may even use the knockback to self-stick another RPG on yourself, but I'll explain that later. You may also use the RPG's knockback to propel you to areas out of reach for normal jumping.
  7. You can do it with only one special, but the technique is very hard and takes a lot of effort to pull off consistently. I wouldn't say anything more than it being more of a lucky trick.
• Method Two (after Flamesaw):
  1. Empty out your inventory so that you only have specials. You need 2 of them by the way.
  2. Charge a flamesaw, then throw it whenever you want. Your form needs to have a wheelie up.
  3. Once you are releasing the flamesaw, change weapons. After that, press triangle and you'll turn on the RPG, then simply aim the right stick down and quickly tap it and it'll stick on your wheel.
  4. You'll be able to do with it what you used to do before. Enjoy.

Multiple Self-stick RPGs:The trick to it is to jump (as you explode it, so that you don't juggle around too much), then quickly reverse turbo while popping a wheelie and having your special out. You'll switch to the RPG and then be able to stick it on yourself. It takes practice to get it going, but it's certainly a useful trick and will save your specials, plus lets you continuously keep yourself armed with sticky bombs.

Weaknesses:

• Anyone that shoots a remote bomb/ RPG and sticks it on you will explode anything you currently have on you: meaning, you'll die if they do that.You'll have to absorb the hit if possible just to not die.
• If you don't shield before it explodes, you'll die too. It does 120 damage if it's fully charged, 45 if not.
• It lasts only one minute, so don't wait too long. Remotes last 2 minutes.

Platforming:

You'll basically want to use the staggering bounce effect to propel yourself over ramps and land in areas that are hard to reach/ impossible to reach for a jumping vehicle, outside of Axel. Not every vehicle can pull this off either, as they need the same bounce from a RPG. There are plenty of good spots you could probably find.

Interesting Tidbit:

If you get sniped (headshot) while in RPG aiming, the game gives some odd strange looking sound effect.

Dodging:

This is a list of things you can/ cannot dodge, and how to do it:

Cannot Dodge (must shield, or hide from using cover):

1. Homing Missiles (there's a chance to "dodge" them, which I will explain below, but if the person shoots them right, you cannot avoid them)
2. Remote Bomb (they will always lock on if someone can hold the deadzone steady)
3. Sniper Rifle
4. Shotgun
5. Charged Ricochet (blast radius)
6. Napalm (blast radius)
7. Reaper's RPG (blast radius)
8. Sweet Tooth's Auto-Aim Mega Guns
9. Juggernaut's turrets (someone must man them to use them)
10. Death Warrant's primary and secondary special
11. Outlaw's primary and secondary special
12. Roadkill's primary and secondary special
13. Kamikaze's flamethrower special
14. Meat Wagon's secondary's special blast radius
15. Vermin's auto-aim secondary lock-on ability; as well as the blast radius
16. Shadow's coffin bomb's blast radius (both primary and secondary)
17. Talon's auto-aim mega guns as well as primary special
18. Crimson Fury's flamethrower.
19. Freeze can be impossible. There's a possibility, but that's almost impossible.

Can Dodge:

1. Stalkers - take sharp turn in a counterclockwise or clockwise direction. You'll need to have speed and come from its 2 o'clock or 11 o'clock position.
2. Swarms - any type of circular turning counterclockwise or clockwise will do the trick.
3. Homing - (opponents must take a sharp turn and have momentum) take a sharper turn than they did and you'll dodge it.
4. Fire - turn away and cut off the missile's seeking angle.
5. Power Missile - steer or jump away from it.
6. Ricochet - steer or jump over it.
7. Reaper's Chainsaw - has the same tracking as a fire missile, pretty much, so just take a turn to the side and you'll avoid it.
8. Reaper's Flamesaw - jumping over it or driving away from its path is easy enough. The hardest part is its speed.
9. Sweet Tooth's primary - turn in a circle, you'll dodge it always.
10. Sweet Bot's Shockwave - jump over it.
11. Sweet Bot's auto-aim tackle - you can out drive the distance by turbo dashing away from it. It has a cut-off range.
12. Junkyard Dog's primary - just a sharp turn will get to avoid it.
13. Junkyard Dog's ALT - jumping over it is the only way.
14. Juggernaut's mines - just don't run into them.
15. Roadboat's primary - treat it like the taxi, except this one can take a sharper turn.
16. Roadboat's alternate - it has a range to it. Plus it only takes 6 to 8 button presses to tap out.
17. Roadkill's mines - just don't run into them.
18. Kamikaze's secondary - jump over it.
19. Meat Wagon's primary - jump over it. Though I'd take a shield.
20. Vermin's primary - turbo dash it while facing it, you must turbo dash at 11 o'clock or 2 o'clock direction of the rat rocket.
21. Axel's specials - don't get crushed and jump over the shockwave.
22. Warthog's specials - don't get crushed and jump over the shockwave.
23. Talon's magnet - you can tap out in 6 to 8 taps, so that's the best way. Take a shield after you drop too.
24. Darkside's primary - avoid it by not standing in front of him when he's using it.
25. Darkside's secondary - you can drive around in a circle and dodge it all.
26. Crimson Fury's alternate - you can jump over it.
27. Rockets - tight turn into it at a very steep angle, and you should outdrive them.
28. SMG - it has a range, so just avoid that range. You can out-turn it after you escape the range.
29. Everything else you just have to stay away from or jump over it.

Learning to dodge is vital and can save you lots of AA for when you really need it.Be sure to practice this as best as you possibly can. It is necessary

.Map Tactics:

Diablo Pass:

• You can snipe with the RPGs from the cliff where you spawn to fight against the Iron Maiden boss. You can also snipe from the bridge onto that cliff. That's also where the Nuke Sacrifice stationary launcher is. In addition, there's a stalker in that cliff section, and mega guns as well as a turbo around the corner. It is also one of the best places to stay. There's also a glitch that you can self-stick RPG bounce yourself into with Reaper and then use the RPG from there. It's to the side of the mega guns, up that wall.
• On the bottom part, near the entrance to Ghost Town, you can flamesaw across the bridge and use the Stalker, homing, and Remote bombs to your advantage in that small area. There's a small place to hide from attacks, and you can pop out and throw flamesaws into crowds. If the going gets tough, you have a health in the center of the bridge, and two behind you in the Ghost Town area.
• These are the two places I like to be at on Diablo mostly because you can cover the bridge from a safer distance and not have to deal with the ramming and falling off crap.
• Reaper's not that useful on this map because he doesn't have his open ground and most of the spawns put him in danger. You're looking to remain active around those two areas as those are your two areas where you can put up the best fight against vehicles. Each has their own advantage, with the bottom giving you more options to attack, and the top giving you the option attack from a distance without much danger.
• On Ghost Town Gulch, you'll really like to stay near the gas station in the back near the health and turbo or sniping RPGs and Stalkers/ snipers into the town, while flamesaw people on any level ground you can find in the mountains and hills area. To do work in the town, you'll have to have a good mastery for pass-and-go flamesaws or shielded flamesaws.

Sunsprings, CA:

• Your three best areas to fight in, based on surfaces, are near the Firehouse, Grocery Store and Hospital subsection and near the church and coffee shoppe with the bridge. The last place is around the move cinema by that open field in front of the gas station and where the remote bomb spawns. You don't want to fight on the hills, unless you're sniping from there. Nor do you want to fight in the open suburbs in front of the firehouse, at least not until that area has been destroyed and there's no houses. The schools aren't the best place to fight, but they can be good for isolation matches, though few go there. The weapons you want in these regions are stalkers and swarms. Use the buildings as cover and then charge and release these as you pop and retreat back and forth between cover and space to fire them until you can freeze + flamesaw kill people. If you don't see enemies around these areas, then gather your business to the mansion or the hills to snipe from those few areas and clear some space. You also have the option to snipe from the top of the movies, so use that too if you're camping near the cinema. Remember, the RPG can explode the mega guns in the bell tower, the movie reel with the health and the water tower too. You don't need to blow up the dishes since you can just jump up to the hills.
• You can plant RPGs on the roof of the hospital, where you can explode it if anyone comes near that health. In the pool, if anyone wants to go and get that health. The side of the movie reel. In the church. And the roof of the other three places that have roofs (two stadiums and grocery store). You'll have a hard time keeping those hills healths since the only thing you do is plant them on the ground.
• Sunsprings is a good Reaper map. Slaughterdale, Old School are great maps with wide open areas, as does the main map. Grindhouse and Killing Field are not like that. It is mostly able hitting and running on those maps. Though, you could find some success on Grindhouse if you camped around the front entrance and the rear entrance.
• You can use the self stick RPG to platform your way onto the top hills on Grindhouse if you wanted. But other than that, there's really no other fancy blocked off hidden area I know of. And yes, you can RPG snipe from up there... It is sort of cheap since you can control the back area by yourself.

Thrills and Spills Theme Park:

• That area with the stone statues in the rock pillars and the health + power missile next to each other on that boat ride is your best area of them all. If you can't get there, then live around the power missile near the other ride, where that moon and rocket sign exists. Those are the best places to use Flamesaws.
• If you're not going to use flamesaws, then you have to find the most Stalkers and Swarmers you can find without crossing open ground and fire them off the top. Or through the many hills and bumps. You're pretty much turning Reaper into a small to hit target and supporting from a distance.
• Of course, if neither is possible, then just stick to the top and resort to sniping with RPGs and sniper rifles and any remote bombs you can find.
• You can RPG the rides like the ferris wheel to damage people, but it is pathetic (13 damage) unlike in the trailer.
• Your best advantage on this map is the ability to use the radar and ambush people. If people chase you, then take them for a tour of the park and leave RPGs around, or stick it on yourself and go kamikaze into them.
• Merlin's and the Haunted House are both great areas that Reaper can one on one versus enemies, but you're not likely to stay there. In addition, sometimes those maps interfere with your camera and make it harder to fight for you. I'd recommend watching out for Merlin's since the Health Semi is really obsessed there.
• Thrills and Kills is one of Reaper's best maps. Especially for sneak attacks.
• There is a good route you can take through the mountain and some of the lower parts of the map like the tunnels and pirate's den to collect a ton of swarmers and stalkers. You'll obviously pick up a sniper too, so feel free to use it.
• On Nuke Reaper is pretty good at defending either of the launchers.

LA Skyline:

• Vertigo is a good map to flamesaw people. Those two areas (not counting the rotation platform) is great. The main map, however, is tough on a Reaper because he gets forced to the two outside buildings and has to RPG/ snipe or flamesaw and attack people at the bottom. It isn't easy being Reaper here. On Nuke, however, Reaper is pretty good.
• You do want to camp the lower floors and kill enemies that come near those areas or snipe up top. You don't want to go to the middle platform as you can't even steady a shop with a flamesaw anyway. You can RPG the health in the middle, but that's about as much as you need to go there, unless you planning on moving around the map.
• If you blow up the blimp and wrecking ball, then you can open up the map and give yourself a better position to fight on the two base areas.
• It isn't the best map for Reaper, but you can play it really well with him on Nuke.

Watkyn's Harbor:

• That section on either sides of the tops of Brewery Battle (the area near the health pickup and that building on the bottom by the street and warehouse and the area near that power missile between the single player's location of one of the garages) are two of the best places to play as Reaper. Other than that, you're looking to really use the buildings to sneak up on people and hit them that way.
• Longer ranged attacks are needed here, which is why you should spend majority of the beginning opening up the ramps and passageways so that you can make access to the roof tops. You don't want to get surrounded though, as that will get you killed in the map.
• On Factory Fued, you can jump to the top of the warehouse with the health and use the swarms and sniper rifle you find up there.
• Tool and Die, you want to get into the bottom and then roll up top after a few hits to recover your AA. Then drop back down. Shielded flamesaws are easy to use in the tunnel.
• The other map is one that Reaper doesn't play at too well, but you'll want to use the RPG on that map more and travel around the top of the map.
• On Nuke, Reaper is better at defending a mobile launcher than the stationary ones. 

Diesel City:

• You're going to have to learn how to use the RPG and self-stick it on yourself for Diesel City's Skid Row section. It's simply not an easy map for Reaper. Ghetto Blaster is easier, but you'll have to fight in the junkyard area more so than the others. Other than that, around that area you could go around and use the pass-and-go flamesaws around corners. Obviously hard.
• You can use the RPG to blow up the radio towers to access the stalker, mega guns, and power missiles easier that are up there.
• In the Slumville section, you want to use the Flamesaw around the freeway and the buildings, while using the RPG as a back up for when you head up top and through the garage loop. You'll probably put yourself out of combat while you're up there though.
• On this map, Freeze + Flamesawing becomes more useful since you're fighting in uneven surfaces. So I recommend using freeze + flamesaw much more than not using it.
• Also stick RPGs more on team mates since the map is more CQC than it seems. Besides that, use remote bombs, swarmers, shotguns, and stalkers.
• On Nuke, you'll have to rush and sacrifice quickly. With your four shields, it is pretty easy.

Metro Square:

• Use the center of the map with the two swarms, turbos, and three stalkers as a haven for attacking. Cross building for building and keep attacking over and over again weaving inside then back to cover.
• You can jump to the roof of the museum by using a wheelie on the ramp-like sign that describes the whale. You'll jump over the whale if you can time it right and you'll break the glass and reach to the top. Up there you can RPG snipe extremely well on maps like Downtown and Suicide as well as the Museum Massacre with the RPG and the weapons you get up there.
• Other than that, you want to play this map like you would on Subway Survival by using the buildings and sewers for cover between flamesaws and then switching to Stalkers/ Swarms and other attacks for the mid-range game. Use those remote bombs on people you'd chase after around corners or from the monorails. You don't really want to stay around longer than you have to, but you can always use a RPG on the trains and get Damage Done and Kills using that.
• On Nuke, you want to defend the mobile launcher and place one on the stationary if you have to. Launching is a little harder for Reaper here, but he's capable of doing it on the stationary one better.
• Other than that, you're pretty much relying on either flamesaws or RPG combos for attacks--the latter more for isolation encounters.
• This I find is one of the best maps for Reaper since he can use both his flamesaw in the wide open, and then return to conventional weapons.

Blackrock Stadium:

• The traps work like this:
  • Spikes go up and down three times per every 30 seconds basically. There is a 1 to 2 second pause between drops.
  • Electricity is connected to the rise and fall of the blocks, there's a pattern where the electricity runs through it and one where it doesn't.
  • The platforms on the end do the same thing over and over again, where they shock for a set time probably 15 seconds and then stop, then start up 5 seconds later.
  • The Health Orb turns on after 50 seconds of game time, then takes a lap around the next minute, and then spends 30 seconds going across the stadium to reach the starting point. It then is inactive for 30 more seconds until it restarts the whole process.
  • The pattern of the walls goes like this (the pattern shifts every 50 seconds or so):
    • All down at the start and the electricity will shock the arena.
    • The outer walls will rise. No shocking.
    • Then both walls will alternate by rising and falling, with shocking here and there.
    • Then the inside walls will rise and stay up.
    • Both walls will drop back down, but no shocking happens.
    • Both walls will rise and remain up.
    • They'll alternate after this and the pattern will repeat.
• Memorize those patterns so that you can choose to attack better.
• Also, remember that you can tag the Health Orb with a RPG and kill off anyone trying to get some health (Talon takes 120 from it). You can also tag the top of the spikes above the health and blow that up when someone gets near it.
• What you want to do on this map is to collect stalkers and swarms and use those while you're on the outside or top and then make your way down when the walls are dropping so you can flamesaw down pathways and get easy freeze + flamesaws. You also want to RPG and remote bomb people from the side corners.
• On the submap, you can RPG people that are in the top area camping. Just stick on the ceiling and explode it for 60 damage
• You can also reach the very top area on the submap by using a self-stick RPG platforming tactic to reach it off either of the two ramps. You can RPG from up there where only Axel, Sweet Tooth, and Talon can really reach you. Axel is an easy kill, but Bot and Talon can always overwhelm you. Being up there lets you avoid spam attacks while attacking with the RPG at people.
• If you get into the lava, then jump and use shields to avoid it.
• Easy map to flamesaw people, plus one of the best maps to practice long distance flamesawing when you turn off the environmental traps.
• On Nuke, you can either choose to go on offense, or defend. Regardless, you can handle any situation since the area is pretty wide on the sacrifice zone and the area up top is flat enough so you can flamesaw people. 

Playing Styles:

There are four: passive, aggressive, specialized offense, and specialized defense. Passive is looking to attack by ambushing, hiding, and using a much less active, frontal attack. You're looking to hunt opponents and stalk them until you know that you're able to safely kill them.

• You will not engage against unfavorable numbers ~ passive Reapers do not like to see deaths as those will affect their play and strategy: mainly their build of weapons that they gather for kill streaks and their AA/ Turbo recharge bonuses.
• You are headhunting one shot kills, so be sure to ambush targets for the kills. You're not looking to kill recently spawned guys.
• Radar must be used properly. Learn that as soon as you go behind the building, the radar loses track of you and you're not on anyone's radar until you take an action. Use this to hide from opponents and let your AA recharge, then strike again.
• The point of this playing style is to gather kills and keep them while you collect kill streak weapons and then attack from afar with stalkers and swarms. And remote bombs and snipers. You are not engaging in fights because you don't wish to risk getting killed.
• Production won't be as high as aggressive Reapers, but you will be able to at least garner good KDR just by relying on selfish play. I wouldn't really praise any Reapers that play this way because they're basically running the whole game, until the opponent decides to ignore them, then they strike. Best way to describe them is "cowards" as they're avoiding all combat until they can cheat one on someone.

Aggressive Reapers are looking to connect flamesaws and deliver high damage done onto targets.

• Your duty is to attack and inflict heavy harm on opponents and you contribute by making your team mates have easier kills, and kill streaks while you mostly get the assits.
• Of course, since you're not hiding and being conservative, you're exposing yourself to hits. It's expected that in order for you to reach high damage values, you'll die a lot more than expected. If you can maintain at least a 2.5: 1 ratio in damage done to damage recieved, then you're contributing spendily. If you can do better, then you're improving.
• Weapons you're looking for are quick hit strikes, and missiles, and close range attacks like shotgun. You're using freezes, absorption shields, and shields to inflict heavy damage onto opponents.
• Production will be high, but this isn't the best Reaper style. As Specialized Offense can sometimes outdo this by a large number-- to the point that your KDR is as high as Passive and your Damage Done is higher.

Specialized Defense is a team player that is using whatever tactics it can to assist the team in maintaining field protection or blocking off areas with RPGs. You're mostly using your specials as a means of defense, and preventing attacks from certain areas or against certain team mates.

• This is a support class Reaper. Your job isn't to do damage, but to freeze, RPG, and defend regions with important weapons and other pickups.
• You're mostly helping other vehicles out and trying your best to cooperate with the team. You may be even doing some Nuke defending and leader dragging too.
• Your main means of offense will be one hit kill freeze + flamesaws or RPG combos using freeze. You're not really looking to join the fight, but to observe and make choices based on what's happening in the fight. Supporting your team with RPGs from afar, or sniping heads sending freezes, and so on. You're even trying to take hits for other players with your shields.
• Maybe even turbo ramming someone so that they can't attack a frozen team mate.
• This Reaper style is successful as it allows other players to fight selfishly, and you're simply a support player. Although, even if people target you, your job is to keep them busy chasing you and not really keep them from fighting your team.
• Of the other styles, this one is the most unqiue and defensive one. There actually are Reapers that play this way, and I can too, but you won't see it that often because it's not only demanding to pull out, but not as rewarding unless you feel good about yourself helping team mates win.

Specialized Offense is basically a Reaper that combines all three styles, but it a lot more aggressive and will engage targets than the defensive type of Reaper.

• You're looking for isolation fights against matchups. Axel is your quickest kill. If no Axel exists, then go after heavy armored vehicles and take them out so that your team can have an easier shot at killing them.
• You're also avoiding unfavorable matchups, unless you can get them from behind or have backup.
• You use more Flamesaw than you use the RPGs, but you do use the RPGs when you can to protect your team, or yourself, or other vehicles, areas, and any other important use for the RPG.
• You're an attack first Reaper that looks to get his damage in and let the team kill people who you weaken. Rather than stick and fight until the end, you leave that to your team of able vehicles to complete as you make your way to recover and rinse and repeat the process again.
• Quick kills is your way to survive, so you'll have to gamble with advanced tactics. Using absorption shield and flamesaws is useful and usually done.
• Production wise, I'd say that you can match any production for the other Reapers, but you're likely going to be the most balanced.

You want to pick a style of play that fits your playing style. Defensive or Offensive. Reaper can be good at any type, but you'll have to work with him. His RPG is very useful now that it got upgraded in damage done, to the point that it can kill certain pests.

I'm a unique Reaper since I do have a specialized offense to my Reaper, mostly because other Reapers that "try" and pretend they're aggressive, they usually take heaps of DR more than I do and don't get the same amount as I do. Which is why I play a seemingly balanced Reaper, although sometimes I am rather lazy and just run head first into areas or swap around. Usually, I can play any style, but my own style is a unique attacking style.

Future Updates:

I'll update it if I have more to add onto it. But most of the things I've wanted to cover are here... I'll probably add more videos and video guides when I can take the time to make them. Anyway, hope this has helped and I hope you enjoy it.

[Xanflys]

Just spent the whole  week reading your topic. Amazing. Never thought anyone could have the patience to do such a detailed guide!

Would you add me on your psn? It would be great to play with someone like you! thanks!

[Robinnio]

Thats a lot of words.

[Vadimony]

Sure. I still got to update this, but this new forum look is making me not want to. 

There's a few new things I've found and videos to explain what I do rather than wording it. 

There's a ton of videos I have to upload and make. 

My PSN = Vadimony

Feel free to add. 

[Xanflys]

I will add you today. I've practiced the rpg/remote self stick and had success! but its very difficult and it took me a lot of time with the rpg. Never thought reaper could do such things!

[dkotu518]

I use reaper in almost every game and Ive had trouble facing other reapers because of how easy it is to dodge my special, usually when I go up against another one I'll throw a normal chainsaw taking away almost half thief health and then fire as much weapons into them as possible. I've tried your self-stick method with the rpg in offline splitscreen but it just blows up on myself almost right after I shoot it. I tried switching weapons to let it cook but it blows up when I do that as well, and after shooting it I become immobile so pressing r1 Is my only option and that doesn't work. Is this only offline? Please help

[Vadimony]

Against Reapers, you should use the Flamesaw mostly since it's a lot easier to keep it moving straight, and it won't be dodged. The Chainsaw is easy to dodge because Reapers curve very easily. You may want to get them when they pass you, or are facing you, but don't have enough speed to turn to the sides. Dodging it is very easy. 

But look for these weapons:

- Stalkers, very useful. 

- Homings (you have to stand still to make sure they hit perfectly, as they really miss if you're shooting them while moving)

- Snipers

- AOE attacks: Remote Bombs, RPG, Napalms, Charged Ricochets.

- Shotguns

Swarms and Fire need the Reaper to be slow and/ or not moving to really hit them. You can hit Reapers from behind while chasing them with either, but they can just go inside or outside to dodge them. 

Freeze + Power = best way to hit a Reaper, unless you have good aim. Though, if you can manage to stick a RPG on them, you can easily have a quick kill, provided you wait for the Reaper to not shield them. 

I'll upload a video today or tomorrow on how I self-stick the RPGs. Other people do it differently, though, but I like my method because it is the same as my original/ default flamesawing stance. So I can always pass off on the flamesaws to use the RPG.