UPDATE: June 18, 2009
- Several photos may be missing/broken. There is an issue with my hosting site, and I am trying to resolve it. Most of the pictures are back online, but as of this update there is one in the DS3 tut that is missing. However I designed the tutorials so that you can rebuild your controls with or without pictures.
- I have updated the tutorials themselves with a new section regarding the removal and installation of the springs in the R2/L2 buttons. The updated steps are marked as follows:
Hello, I searched the forums for a while and didn't find a tutorial on how to disassemble and reassemble the SixAxis and Dual Shock 3 controllers so I figured I'd make one. I tried to be detailed about it and if you're slightly electronic savvy you can just use the pictures. For all of the newbies I have written a detailed set of instructions to go along with the pictures. Please be sure to follow them and read anything marked in green. The entire tear-down and rebuild shouldn't take you that long (less than an hour, maybe 30 min if you know what you're doing).
Preface
Tools:
- Screwdriver
Make sure it is a small screwdriver (Phillips head). The screws in these controllers are not as delicate as the ones holding the HDD, but the plastic they are housed in can be 'sticky' . Also be sure that the screwdriver is not magnetic!
Screwdrivers that are magnetized are OK.
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If you have a suitable screwdriver that is not magnetized and you would like it to be simply find a magnet (medium size works best)and let the magnet hold the tip of screwdriver for about 30 sec-1min. Viola! you now have a magnetically charged screwdriver that is safe for use with electronics. A magnetic screwdriver is much more powerful than a magnetized one and can easily damage components near it.
- ESD band
I recommend an ESD (Electrostatic Discharge) band for the safest possible handling on the controller parts. Remember there are components inside the controller which are meant to carry electricity, but only a certain amount and balance. ESD discharges are very, very powerful (high voltage) well over 10,000 volts . These discharges may look cute and harmless, but to most consumer electronics ESD is a deadly accident.
- Don't do this on carpet. Carpet is famous for it's ability to create ESD from friction. Instead use a glass, cardboard, or wooden surface.
- Make sure to have a place to store the screws so they won't get lost!
- I TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANYTHING THAT HAPPENS TO YOUR CONTROLLERS DUE TO USE OF MY TECHNIQUES...etc.
SIXAXIS
This was the first of the PS3 controllers. Sony claimed that the Dual Shock was "last generation technology" and "there is no room for Rumble capabilities inside the controller" (So much for that).
- GROUND YOURSELF
- Touch someone's finger, a door knob, a computer case, a metal bed. You get the idea.
- Be careful not to loose any screws! Sometimes they fall out right away, but sometimes they need to be forced out by separating the controller.
3. Press firmly on the bottom half of the controller part as shown in the picture.
- There is a clip inside that must be relieved in order to separate the halves. If you do not relieve the clip from it's holding position you may break the case!
- This is the reset button extension. When you separated your controller halves you have seen something fall out and been like "WTFlip was that?!" Well it was the extension. Without it, resetting the controller will be much more difficult, if not impossible from the outside. Be sure to keep track of it.
4. With the halves separated disconnect the Li-Ion battery.
- Be careful when disconnecting it. It should slide out with relative ease. Use the small tabs on the side for the easiest results.
5. Remove the screw as indicated in the picture.
- This screw is highly important, as it holds down the main-board. It should come out easily, but gentle. Treat all of screws in the controller the same as those that hold the HDD inside the PS3 (For that don't understand that means firm but not excessive pressure, but delicately and with patience).
6. Remove the main-board and L2/R2 brackets as one unit (remove them all together).
- I recommend removing the L2/R2 brackets first as not to stress the ribbon board.
- These are the mid-covers for the shoulder button bracket. They come off easily.
- If the battery brackets fall off don't worry. They can be put back on easily.
- DO NOT TOUCH THE SURFACE OF THE MAIN-BOARD OR RIBBON BOARD! Human skin secrets an oil (news flash lol!) This oil is corrosive to common boards and can cause irreparable damage.
- This is the ribbon board. It is delicate. and is the electrical medium to the main board for the face buttons.
7. Now we will remove the springs and R2/L2 buttons.
8. Push the pin/hinge out from either side( I pushed mine out from the outside first). BE CAREFUL OF THE RIBBON BOARD!!!
- be careful not to lose the spring. It shouldn't come flying out, but when you take the pin all the way out it will drop or possibly pop out and land nearby.
- easy to disassemble yes, but beware the tedious reassembly.
9. Place the R2/L2 button so that it aligns roughly with all the slots as shown. Then, seat the spring in it's original location(you can use the other side too, if you like).
10. Slide the pin into the first two slots, and just partly through R2/L2 slot.
- The R2/L2 button WILL NOT allow the pin to be fully installed in the shown position.
- Sliding the pin into position while keeping the sping seated, and the slots aligned is a VERY tedious process. BE PATIENT & BE GENTLE! I cannot stress this enough. Do not forget that the ribbon board is the only thing holding the R2/L2 bracket to the rest of the controller. If you warp it, contaminate it(including skin contact), or damage it in any way there is a chance that the buttons and/or other controller functions will cease to work properly.
11. Once you have the pin in all the slots except the last two press the button into the postion shown to allow the pin to be fully installed.
- Be sure to check for proper hinge action (aka proper button operation) when the pin is fully seated.
12. Remove the main-board from it's bracket by using the rod as indicated in the picture, but just take it off the rod. DO NOT TRY TO TAKE IT ALL THE WAY OFF THE BRACKET. Minimal contact.
13. Remove the ribbon connector power/data cable from the main board using the tabs on the sides of the connector.
14. Remove the SixAxis power/data cable.
- Use the tip of the screwdriver to press in the tab in the middle of the connector (on top) and push with adequate force.
- Sorry about the blurry photo.
- It's the soul of the SixAxis. The motion sensor itself. I DO NOT RECOMMEND TAKING OFF THE BLACK CUSHION!
15. Take off the mediums, LED light bridge, and L1/R1 buttons as indicated in the picture.
16. Take out the buttons, d-pad, PS button, and d-pad arm thingy.
- The PS button needs the 'pressure enhancer' to work.
17. TEAR DOWN COMPLETE
!
- Take some time to check the parts and see if there's anything unusual. Take a break too.
18. Put the buttons back into the face of the controller as well as the LED light bridge.
- All of the action buttons are keyed and only go into one spot. The PS button must have the pressure enhancer facing upwards to work right. Also be sure to install the d-pad arm thing in the right orientation.
19. Install the mediums and L1/R1 buttons.
20. Reinstall SixAxis chip into it's slot on the ribbon board bracket and reconnect it to the main-board.
21. Reconnect the ribbon board to the main-board.
- use the white surface near the connector on the ribbon board to push it back into the connector end on the main-board.
22. Install the main-board to the bracket and tighten the screw (lightly tighten).
23. Install the shoulder brackets into the case slots.
- The mediums have a tendency to get stuck. Be sure to check for proper feel and operation of L1/R1 buttons.
24. Install battery connector.
- DO NOT FORCE THE CONNECTOR. The position you see in the picture is fully connected.
- If you do install it as I did be careful as the controller now has the ability to run power though itself. Any improper contact may result in a dead controller.
25. Install mid-covers.
26. Install reset button extension.
27. Install other case half gently starting with the top side first.
- If you feel any excess resistance to seating at the top do not force it.
- The top half should go down easily and be followed closely by the bottom half.
28. Snap the clip in.
29. Reinstall the 5 case screws and be sure to tighten gently.
30. REBUILD COMPLETE!
- Test your controller.
nake Eater | GT3:A-spec | Warhawk | GT5 Prologue | MGS4 Guns of the Patriots | Socom | Little Big Planet | SFIV | COD4|CODMW2
Lawson9 wrote:
what about the joysticks, they stay on the board? I ask because thats the problem with my sixaxis's, both of their analog sticks get stuck to the sides front and back alot. I also read that the playstation analog sticks rotate on small diameter center for more speed in moving but the controllers wear down more because of it where as the other consoles controller has larger diameter which isnt as responsive but lasts alot longer.
I took one of my controllers apart the other day to try and fix the "Sticking" problem. Unfortunantly they are thier own seperate unit attached to the board so if your controller starts sticking well its about time to get a new one from what I have seen. no way in and no way to fix. I am trying a test to see if reseting a controller and pairing it to the PS3 will fix this problem, but as of right now not sure. Wish they were like the PS2 controllers and would reset to the position they were powered on in...
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