03-13-2012 08:51 AM
It's official...my old school, backwards compatible 60GB PS3 finally died this weekend. It has been with me for many wonderful years and I am very sad to see it go, but I supposed it was due. I can't begin to imagine how many hours I have logged on that bad boy either through the thousands of movies I have watched or countless hours spent playing games. The question now is, what's next? Does anyone have experience or feedback with the refurb's through Sony? I guess my options are, refurb the 60 GB for $129, refurb for a slim 160 GB for $99...or bite the bullet and buy a new system entirely. If I had some sort of confidence the refurb would last a good long time, I would be willing to try it...but I am very nervous.
Any feedback from the group?
03-13-2012 08:55 AM
Third option is get your original fixed. Honestly, I'd go with fixing before a refurb, simply because a refurb may be in the same condition as yours was 90 days ago...meaning on the brink of death. Fixing through "reballing" is much more reliable, IMO.
You can probably get your unit fixed for about the same amount as Sony charges for the refurb, maybe even a little less, and the bonus is that you will get all your saved games back. If it were me, that's a win-win.
03-13-2012 09:04 AM
I watched several of the videos on youtube on the repairs, but I don't have a lot of confidence that I would be able to do it adequately. I am not mechanically inclined and don't have a lot of confidence that I could fix it myself.
03-13-2012 09:12 AM
NO! I mean have a professional, like a repair shop, fix it. And make sure that you have it "reballed", not "reflowed". All those videos you are talking about are "reflowing" with a heat gun. This is not fixing the problem. It's a bandaid. "Reballing" means having all the old cracked solder removed, and fresh solder put on. And the solder that is put on is more durable than the original, because it has lead in it and won't crack, ever. Government regulations prohibit companies like Sony from using any lead materials in their product, therefore the solder ends up cracking over time, because of the materials used.
You would be surprised to hear that many companies like Endless Electronics will do a reball for $80, plus $30 for diagnostic fee (which includes return shipping), plus your $15 to ship it there, and you are close to Sony's price for a refurb.
And for another $40, you can get a lifetime warranty on the repair, which makes it almost insane to consider a refurb, since the first thing you would have to do to a refurb to have any piece of mind about it not YLOD'ing on you next week, is change the paste and pads and all that, which would cost you close to $40 just to do yourself.
03-13-2012 09:43 AM
If you don't need backwards compatibility, the Slim refurb is a good way to go. The insides have been redesigned with newer, power saving chips. It's less likely to fail the same way as the Fats.