I've been fixing PS3s and 360s for my friends whenever they get a YLOD or 3 Red rings etc.
Now for some PS3s they don't die after a few months and keep running, some will work only for a month or so and YLOD again.
Whenever a PS3 YLOD again, I redo the heat gun fix and sure enough they will come back. I've done a lot of research and I can definately see that I am not the only person having this issue with YLOD PS3s.
Now heres my procedure on how I fix:
Although summarized, that is the exact procedure I've used to fix maybe 25 to 30 consoles. Out of those about ten will keep coming back.
The last thing to try is a method called RE-BALL (a kit needs to be purchased for this)
You can use this guide to get a more exact reflow than just "point your heatgun at your chips for 3 minutes in circular motion etc" BUT for those of you that have tried similiar methods:
I have a few PS3s to experiment with to see if I can completely perfect this method as it can be used for more than just consoles (laptops, any pcd board depending on the material used to construct, consoles, phones, harddrive boards etc)
The method I've chose is based to mimic this machine for as cheap as possible:
I hope this helps those with failing reflow issues (i.e. ps3 doesnt work at all after reflow)
but if you have any input to make this method robust/better it would be highly appreciated.
I have seen Gilsky's guide already but I am looking for something a bit more specific and controlled. (unless there is a new guide that I haven't seen by gilsky)
What I am looking for is specific temperature ranges. Not the method itself.
Infact over the last few days I've found a very good set of temperatures:
Heat bottom for 5 min w/ griddle board to 130 C (10 C higher than before)
Heat cheap first to 100 c in one min.... then 200 c by 2 min...then to 240 and hold for 45 seconds.
Repeat for other chip ... then cool
seems to be working much better ... i guess holding the temperature at 227 was not hot enough ...